Among the things I did to amuse myself during my (very cold) few days at the lake in early September while Rick was still on his cycling journey, was go through old photos on my computer and take a look at some I'd forgotten. I wanted to finish this post during my most recent visit -- but with no computer, it had to wait. But now, the first of several collections to pop up here in the future -- "Fall Favorites."
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| Near Charlevoix, Michigan |
Our last day in London! And there were places to go, people to see, things to do! On the "things to do" list was one last concert, this at the historic St. Olave's Church. It was one of the few medieval City churches that survived the Great Fire of London, thanks in large part to Sir William Penn who ordered his men from the naval yards to blow up the houses surrounding the church. This created a fire break. That, and a shift of wind, kept the church intact.
Rick, Jenny, T and I took off on the tube and took a short walk to Hart street. We had plenty of time before the concert to explore this small church with its lovely churchyard. Diarist Samuel Pepys called it "Our Own Church," and supported it both financially and artistically, creating a memorial bust of his wife in the church after her death so he could "see" her on Sundays. In "The Uncommercial Traveler," Charles Dickens described it as "one of my best beloved churchyards."
It's lovely to start out the morning with good friends and that's exactly what Rick and I did after moving over to spend the last few days of our London visit with blogger Jenny and her her husband T. After kicking off the morning, we decided to split ways again. Rick and T would go for a bike ride. Jenny and I would take a long walk through Hampstead.
Hampstead is a beautiful area/neighborhood about fifteen minutes north of the center of London on the tube. We took off to see old houses and landmarks, passing by, among others, that of Sigmund Freud, continuing through narrow streets.
After our visit to the College of Arms and Gordon's wine bar, we had a bit of time before checking out of our hotel and moving over to Jenny and T's for a couple of days. Rick wanted to return to the guitar store so we split up. As I was walking down Charing Cross I noticed the National Portrait Gallery, which I had been interested in visiting. It seemed like a good time to do it, or at least do what I could.
The National Portrait Gallery is just one of many fine art museums in London. This one has the specific focus of portraiture in a variety of media, though most is photography or painting/visual art.
We are back to the last bunch of posts from England! If you were to ask me "what is the one museum I should visit during my very short time in London," I would probably say (unless you were into a specific topic, like "I only want to see art"), don't miss "The Victoria and Albert" (aka the V&A).
Why? Because it has it all. Decorative Arts. Painting. Photography. Sculpture. History. Jewelry. Glass. Architecture. Media and Performing Arts. And probably more than a few things I've forgotten.
After our last post, visiting by the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, we decided to head back across the river and check out some of the buildings of the City, the square mile where much business takes place. We first stopped into All Hallow's by the Tower Church, the oldest church in the City of London and founded before the Tower itself, in 675AD. The altarpiece in the sanctuary, dates to 1957 and depicts The Last Supper, as seen by artist Brian Thomas.
An interesting fact is that the Great Fire of London started several hundred yards from the church, but the church itself survived. Admiral Penn, the father of William Penn (for whom Pennsylvania was named) and Samuel Pepys watched the city burn from the church's tower. Young William Penn was baptized there and American president John Quincy Adams was married there. It took World War II to damage the church, which was largely rebuilt after the war. (Only the walls and tower remained.)
After a full day (HERE and HERE) and a bad sleeping night (it was time to break out the emergency medicine my doc sent with me), we decided on a day of meandering. With theatre tickets that night and a late start, we could do as much or as little as we could manage. So, we decided we'd head toward the Tower of London.
I loved his colorful, abstract look at a walk through English history, highlighting such things as William the Conqueror, Queen Elizabeth I and even the ravens of the Tower.
I left off last time as we were in London's West End, just having wrapped up a lovely concert at St. Martin's in the Field. We had decided to go to Evensong at Westminster Abbey that afternoon and there is always a queue, so we thought we'd amble that way down Whitehall.
Charing Cross Road turns into Whitehall just after Trafalgar Square and as one approaches the government buildings. You'll find the Churchill War Rooms and museum in his area (highly recommended -- you can see an older post here) and 10 Downing Street. You'll also pass a number of war memorials, which I wrote about back around Veteran's Day HERE.
I love London's West End with its theatres, book stores, and more. Best of all, it's very walkable and so after our hearty English breakfast we set out for this area. The first thing we encountered as a marvelous (and totally unexpected) video installation focusing on the musical "The Lion King," which was celebrating 25 years on stage in London's West End.
There were enormous projections, along with models of costumes and the marvelous masks and puppetry. My photos of the costumes weren't good ones but this one intrigues me with its reflections.
When last we left our happy travelers, we had completed a road trip to Basildon Park, Hungerford, Burford, Snowshill Manor and Hughenden. We arrived home in time to get to a guitar concert at the wonderful crypt at St. Martin In the Field.
We're back in London with a visual treat today -- The Wallace Collection. I'd read about this but what really turned us on to it was a suggestion from the sales guy at the Steinway store. It was only a couple of blocks away (a good thing on a drizzly day) and he said it would be special. It was!
This elaborate collection was curated over time by several generations of the marquesses of Hertford and Richard Wallace, an illegitimate son. It contains an extraordinary amount of paintings, armor and arms, and decorative items.
We're headed back to England for a bit here on Marmelade Gypsy, sharing some of the things we experienced last October in London. One of Rick's goals in London was to go to as many classical concerts as possible. A second thing, one on his bucket list for years, was to attend a concert at Wigmore Hall, a concert hall that opened in 1901 and is known for its excellent acoustics. During its history, it has hosted many of the greatest musicians in the world. It is also known for promoting new talent and for its learning programs, which work to engage those who might otherwise not have opportunities to explore classical music.
So, after a wonderful breakfast at our hotel, we took off, first stopping in Oxford Street so Rick could take a peek inside the guitar store . . .
Selfridges is one of London's oldest department stores and it is a beauty. It's not always for the fiscally faint of heart but no one can deny there are some beautiful things there. This is no more obvious than at Christmas time. Even in October, they had their "Christmas Shop" open -- and it was enchanting.
I think you can imagine that when I saw these two trees flanking the entry as I was walking down the aisle, my pace quickened a bit because I knew I had to see what was inside!
So, what did we do on our first full day out in London? We went to the library!
And believe me, the British Library is no ordinary library. Yes, there are books (although you have to get a special pass to the reading room to actually touch one, except in one of the two gift shops). But there is so much more!
Welcome to London! And welcome back to the travel posts! (I will probably be breaking here and there to fill you in on things like holiday fun). And yes, London was beginning to be decked for the season, too!
After a week in the country, we packed our bags, ready to leave for London. In some ways, neither of us wanted to go. Yes, we were excited for London and all that awaited, but we were so very happy here, we knew it would be hard to say goodbye.
Once our things were together, we decided on a last walk, about two miles. We headed toward Monkton Combe, walking well-trod paths. It was a lovely day and we took our time.
Those of us in America may well have had parents or grandparents who served overseas in World War I or World War II, and many did not return home. But our country was not physically attacked. We may have had blackouts or rations, our men and women and working to support the war effort. But we were not bombed, with entire cities and towns being destroyed. Many in my own generation may or may not have served in the military. In Europe, it was a different story.
