This England -- A Church, a Pub and Theatre!

After our last post, visiting by the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, we decided to head back across the river and check out some of the buildings of the City, the square mile where much business takes place. We first stopped into All Hallow's by the Tower Church, the oldest church in the City of London and founded before the Tower itself, in 675AD. The altarpiece in the sanctuary, dates to 1957 and depicts The Last Supper, as seen by artist Brian Thomas.

 

An interesting fact is that the Great Fire of London started several hundred yards from the church, but the church itself survived. Admiral Penn, the father of William Penn (for whom Pennsylvania was named) and Samuel Pepys watched the city burn from the church's tower. Young William Penn was baptized there and American president John Quincy Adams was married there. It took World War II to damage the church, which was largely rebuilt after the war. (Only the walls and tower remained.)

We also made a stop at Leadenhall Market, which I later learned was included in the Harry Potter film franchise. It was a lovely place but mostly restaurants, not much "market."

Then we took in some of the more modern architecture of the City. 

 Much is striking but I am not a fan.

I preferred the more classic look of buildings that included the Bank of England, Lloyds of London and the Royal Exchange.  

 

From there we headed back to Westminster, thinking we might be in time for the Free Day event. But we missed it, and we were getting a little hungry so it was time to take the advice of a fellow blogger, Mike Biles of A Bit About Britain. He had written about a nearby pub called Two Chairmen and we thought we'd give it a try.

Boy, are we glad we did. We both enjoyed excellent fish and chips.

The Two Chairmen felt like what I envision "a real pub" to be -- not a lot of tables or booths, a generous looking bar and a cozy feeling. 

I doubt we would have found this wandering -- it's on a side street, one that you may or may not use to get to another. It was worth the search!

Even in the later afternon, we were lucky to get a table. And I was very happy.

 

Heading back, we walked through St. James Park, which was looking lovely in the fall. (And was pretty much the only fall color I saw these late October days in England!)

Then across Green Park and down Piccadilly, where Rick bought a book on Edward I at Hatchard's. From there is was up into the West End again, past the many throngs of people near Chinatown and to the Wyndham Theatre.

This was my night. We were seeing the Robert Ickes production of "Oedipus," a modern telling of the classic Greek drama "Oedipus Rex." The play was only open for a three month run and had only recently opened when we arrived.

 

and starring one of my favorites, Lesley Manville. (Ironically, while we were in Bath we managed to see her in two "Law and Order UK" episodes and "Mrs. 'Arris Goes to Paris," along with the recent "Magpie Murders" at home!) Her co-star was actor Mark Strong, whom I'd just seen on the plane a few weeks before in "The Imitation Game."

And, the production was brilliant. It was sent in the contemporary political world where secrets or a devastating nature were to emerge, destroying the career of a newly elected politician and the lives of his family. (It seemed a tad topical!)

I adored it, the acting, the whole of it. But then, I knew the original play and it doesn't have a happy ending and it was pretty clear that they weren't changing the ending for the modern version! It's a Greek tragedy, after all! Rick had no idea what the play was about or how the original ended. For a guy who wasn't keen to see the inside of a historic place where decapitated heads were on spikes, it was not a favorite. 

It was a full and exhausting day -- but an excellent one! (Despite all the death.)

Travel Tips:

• There are plenty of opportunities to get tickets to West End productions in London, the most famous (and reliable) being the Leicester Square ticket booth. (You'll see others. Pass them by.) Or, you can take a chance and go to the box office. But if there is something you really want to see, especially if it is a limited run or with certain performers, it's best to order online before you go. The downside of that is a lack of spontaneity but it may be well worth it.
• If you want to learn what is on prior to going, it's easy to check online. I subscribe to a weekly London theatre newsletter. They often have deals, but I've not purchased from them. Still, a good source for news -- that's how I found out about "Oedipus."
• It probably goes without saying but mine other sources for interesting places and things to do -- some of whom may be your blog friends. I found "Two Chairman" courtesy of Mike's "A Bit About Britain" post and other spots courtesy of online UK Facebook travel sites and blogs of others. Laura of Decor to Adore told me about Sir John Soame's House for a previous trip. Both were wonderful and I'd have been sorry to miss either.

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