First, I want to thank everyone who has hung in here with my many posts on our England trip. I've loved your comments and hope I have answered some of your questions. This post might answer a few more. I wanted to wrap up with a few thoughts about travel in general (and maybe England in particular.)
All good things come to an end. We boarded our plane home from England, tired and happy -- ready to get back to Lizzie and not ready to leave!
Our last day in London! And there were places to go, people to see, things to do! On the "things to do" list was one last concert, this at the historic St. Olave's Church. It was one of the few medieval City churches that survived the Great Fire of London, thanks in large part to Sir William Penn who ordered his men from the naval yards to blow up the houses surrounding the church. This created a fire break. That, and a shift of wind, kept the church intact.
Rick, Jenny, T and I took off on the tube and took a short walk to Hart street. We had plenty of time before the concert to explore this small church with its lovely churchyard. Diarist Samuel Pepys called it "Our Own Church," and supported it both financially and artistically, creating a memorial bust of his wife in the church after her death so he could "see" her on Sundays. In "The Uncommercial Traveler," Charles Dickens described it as "one of my best beloved churchyards."
It's lovely to start out the morning with good friends and that's exactly what Rick and I did after moving over to spend the last few days of our London visit with blogger Jenny and her her husband T. After kicking off the morning, we decided to split ways again. Rick and T would go for a bike ride. Jenny and I would take a long walk through Hampstead.
Hampstead is a beautiful area/neighborhood about fifteen minutes north of the center of London on the tube. We took off to see old houses and landmarks, passing by, among others, that of Sigmund Freud, continuing through narrow streets.
I love London's West End with its theatres, book stores, and more. Best of all, it's very walkable and so after our hearty English breakfast we set out for this area. The first thing we encountered as a marvelous (and totally unexpected) video installation focusing on the musical "The Lion King," which was celebrating 25 years on stage in London's West End.
There were enormous projections, along with models of costumes and the marvelous masks and puppetry. My photos of the costumes weren't good ones but this one intrigues me with its reflections.
Rick ticked off a bucket list activity when he went to Wigmore Hall. For me, the bucket list item to tick was a visit to Bletchley Park. This place, where some say "England won the war" by deciphering the German codes, has intrigued me through countless books, films ("The Imitation Game," among others) and television ("The Bletchley Circle).
Reliving my England trip and sharing it with you continues with one more post of our road trip. We're still in Oxfordshire with Jenny and T, visiting historic buildings. After leaving Burford and that beautiful church, we headed toward Hughenden, the country home of Benjamin Disraeli, one of Victoria's prime ministers.
I'm already eager for spring. I may be a lousy gardener myself, but I love visiting a good one. Charles Paget Wade, whom we met as the quirky collector of Snowshill Manor, loved his gardens as well and reviewing the photos reminds me that he did a fine job with his property. They are far more simplified than his home, which we saw in the last post!
Even in autumn, maybe especially in autumn, the sense of the garden, the colors and textures, were so very alive! We found this true, even though our visit was in mid-October.
I'm a collector. Lots of us are. We pick several (OK, maybe more than
several) things that particularly appeal to us and build a collection.
In my house you'll find vintage postcards, lots of china and dishes,
figurines handed down from my mom, some British royal memorabilia (books, commemorative plates, cups and tins), plenty of Christmas and more than a
few books.
Sometimes our houses get a little full.
What could be a more delightful way to explore England than a road trip? (Especially if it might include a visit to historic homes, including one that was in "Downton Abbey" (see link to see how t was used as the Crawley's London home) and "The Crown"?) Our friends, blogger Jenny and her husband, T, offered to show us some lovely spots, so we took the next three days to see more of England's beautiful countryside.
Our first destination would be Basildon Park, a beautiful manor house located in Berkshire. You may never have visited Basildon Park, but if you have seen programs like "Downton Abbey," "Pride and Prejudice," "The Crown," "Pride, Prejudice and Zombies," and "Bridgerton," you have seen a bit of this beautiful estate.
We're headed back to England for a bit here on Marmelade Gypsy, sharing some of the things we experienced last October in London. One of Rick's goals in London was to go to as many classical concerts as possible. A second thing, one on his bucket list for years, was to attend a concert at Wigmore Hall, a concert hall that opened in 1901 and is known for its excellent acoustics. During its history, it has hosted many of the greatest musicians in the world. It is also known for promoting new talent and for its learning programs, which work to engage those who might otherwise not have opportunities to explore classical music.
So, after a wonderful breakfast at our hotel, we took off, first stopping in Oxford Street so Rick could take a peek inside the guitar store . . .
After a week in the country, we packed our bags, ready to leave for London. In some ways, neither of us wanted to go. Yes, we were excited for London and all that awaited, but we were so very happy here, we knew it would be hard to say goodbye.
Once our things were together, we decided on a last walk, about two miles. We headed toward Monkton Combe, walking well-trod paths. It was a lovely day and we took our time.
While I was admiring the magnificent architecture and glorious peace of Wells Cathedral, Rick took advantage of a beautiful day to do a hike.
Here's another guest post by Rick (actually, his Facebook post of that day) to give you an idea of the beautiful countryside as seen on foot.
Before we left home, as I was checking maps and guidebooks, I saw that the town of Wells wasn't far from Bath. And indeed, when I spoke with friend Martha, she said it was an easy bus ride away. I'd been curious about Wells and its cathedral for years, ever since I saw a photo by my friend, the late travel photographer Wally Parshall. I knew this was a spot I'd like to visit.
Rick, on the other hand, wanted to take advantage of the lovely day to take a hike, so I went into the city and hopped the double decker bus, sitting happily in the first row of the upper level, and off I went to Wells!
One always hears about rain in England and we got the Bath version on this day. And it was odd -- it would pour relentlessly and hard; then stop; then drizzle; then pour again. It was a good morning to stay in for a bit, especially after our walking day in Cardiff. Rick worked on his family tree, I read. But around noon we decided it wasn't going to clear up and we certainly weren't going to stay in the house all day, so off we went! After all, it was a good day for an afternoon tea!
Those of us in America may well have had parents or grandparents who served overseas in World War I or World War II, and many did not return home. But our country was not physically attacked. We may have had blackouts or rations, our men and women and working to support the war effort. But we were not bombed, with entire cities and towns being destroyed. Many in my own generation may or may not have served in the military. In Europe, it was a different story.
Before our trip, we had lunch with our friends Mark and Martha, whose cottage we were renting. They gave us some tips on things we might want to explore while in Bath and one was going to the Independent, a market in the nearby town of Frome (pronounced Froom like broom).
Well, one look at the website and we were all in! So the day after rugby, off we went, boarding the bus (which actually arrived on time right down the hill from us!).
I confess, when Rick said he wanted to go to a rugby game while we were in Bath, I wasn't exactly keen. I mean, what do we know about rugby? I'm not even fond of football and at least I know the rules.
But it is a very English sport and when in Rome (or Bath), get into the swing of it! So, while Rick was out riding his bike from Bath to Bristol and wherever all it took him, I was charged with getting rugby tickets! They weren't terribly expensive and we felt lucky to get them late the day before.
For the most part, Rick and I did pretty much everything together during our trip. But there were a couple of times when we split up because a cyclist has to ride and when it's beautiful, new territory, nothing could have kept Rick from the bike.
So, I'm turning this post over to him, sharing his Facebook post about his cycle ride on our first day. As I was exploring Bath and getting rugby tickets, this was his day!
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All things considered, we woke relatively rested for our first full day in Bath -- and a beautiful one it was. Rick decided it was a perfect day to rent a bike and go on a long ride. I decided to go into the city. Erika asked in the last post if we had a car available or used the bus. For us, it was the bus -- usually (with a couple of exceptions) a very reliable way to get around the area.
So on this morning, I hustled down to the bus, only to stand waiting and waiting. Finally, I wondered if I might be in the wrong place (or had just missed the one before, which is what I realized had happened). Hope and Anchor had turned their closed sign to open so I crossed back over and asked if I might get a cup of tea and a little advice.
One thing we knew for certain when planning our trip. If the cottage we stayed in during our last trip to Bath was still available, we wanted to rent it again and have a longer visit. It was, and we did! (This photo is from my walk in the area.)
At first we thought we might visit Dublin or Edinburgh first. But we decided to spend the whole first week of our holiday in Bath (Midford, actually, about three miles outside the city) and branch off from there. It was a smart idea. (See the travel tips at the end of this post.)
