Paris In July: What's Your Favorite Recommendation?

Rick and I will be spending three full days in Paris in early October on the way to England.

We've been there before so we've seen the "regulars" -- d'Orsay, Louvre, Notre Dame, Montmartre, all that. But it's a big city and loads more to see!

So, if you were going to Paris for a few days and had seen all the biggies, which attraction, shop, cafe or restaurant, museum, or other spot would you choose?

Remember -- early October!

Thanks for the recommendation and here is mine -- a must for history and medieval fans:

The Musée de Cluny - Musée national du Moyen Âge, formerly the Musée national du Moyen Âge, or just the Musée de Cluny, or the Musée national du Moyen Âge – Thermes et hôtel de Cluny.

Here's what I wrote about it after my 2009 visit!

All the pix in this post are from there!

Happy to share today with the last of Tamara's Paris in July at Thyme for Tea! Check her site and if you are a fan of Paris or France, visit some of the fun links posted over the last four weeks!

A Favorite French Musee

Today I am going to take you to my favorite museum in Paris -- The Musee de Cluny (also known as Musee national du Moyen Age) and often called Cluny. Here's a little traveling music. You'll find it in Paris' 5th arrondissement not far from the Sorbonne.

The museum's home is an exceptional Parisian monument -- the Cluny Abbey Hotel, which was built in the late 15th century, partially on remains of third century Gallo-Roman baths.

Its styles combine Gothic and Renaissance architecture and you'll find gargoyles dormers and craggy walls.

To tourists, Cluny may be best known for housing the famous Lady and the Unicorn tapestries (15th century).

The tapestries have their own room, a windowless chamber (and getting pix here is tough without flash!)

Considered one of the greatest works of art from Middle Ages Europe, there are six scenes that tell the story of chivalry, virtue and romance. Look carefully to discover which of the senses the tapestry depicts -- sight, sound, touch, taste, smell and one often interpreted as Love. The detail on the stitching is exquisite.

But there are other remarkable treasures here as well, including medieval sculptures...

illuminated manuscripts and stunning stained glass.

The stained glass is really remarkable, the colors as vibrant and beautiful as they no doubt were the day they were made.

The collection of medieval and Renaissance art and objects came largely from Alexandre du Sommerard and was acquired by the state upon his death. The museum opened in 1843.

There is a great sense of peace in this museum. It's more than the religious and historical artifacts that lend to the feeling of sacred space.

It is simply a feeling that surrounds you, wandering in the quiet, cool areas.

This isn't on everyone's "see it on my first trip to Paris" list -- but I would encourage one who loves history to rethink that! It's well worth it.

Happy to join in this week with Paris In July and Dreaming of France as links become available.

At both sites you'll find links related to French travel, museums, films, books, music and more.

Day Two -- Cluny, Shakespeare, Paris at Night

On day two -- Thursday -- I visited what was my favorite museum of the trip. The Musee National du Moyen Age.

It was a late start -- sleeping till noon and really not getting out till about three. (After waking and getting going, we had one of our lengthy telephone conversations with Air France. Or rather, Jerry talked with them. More would be coming...)

So, off we went, past the Pompidou Centre (and modern art museum, which to my mind was the ugliest building of all time. I couldn't even take a photo of it. This was the fountain in front of it. It would be fine in the right spot -- in Paris, it seemed all round.

Then a stop into Sainte Merri, a beautiful church that was worth every moment spent. (That's in the background of the ugly fountain.)

Churches are everywhere. Old.Massive. Filled with wonderful art. This one didn't disappoint.

(Now I'm panicking because I'm not sure if all of these are Saint Merri or if Notre Dame got mixed up in there! Purists, I am on guard for your input!)

We headed to the Left Bank and the Musee national du Moyen Age (aka Cluny) -- all medieval wonder including the renowned "Lady and the Unicorn" tapestries. This was my favorite museum of them all. In fact, after Cluny, everything else just sort of seemed like "a museum" to me. Lovely, certainly, and with wonderful art. But fairly typical.

The "Lady and the Unicorn" was simply astounding, representing the five senses and the sixth showing the lady renouncing the senses for purity. They are enormous, beautifully stitched and completely filling a large, rounded, darkened room (which is why the photos are a bit tinted and blurry, but I had to share at least one).

Other highlights included magnificent stained glass...

Many carved pieces, like this triptych...

Ancient busts...
And artifacts from daily life.

Given that it was the middle ages, many of the items had religious themes. I loved the books and very old sheet music.

The stone walls were striking.

The area was once the residence of the abbots of Cluny and was built on the ruins of Roman baths, starting is 1330 and continuing till 1485-1500. The vaulted ribs in a room that was once part of the Roman baths were stunning.

Another gallery included figurative sculpture from the facade of Notre Dame, including twelve heads of Kings of Judah from the Gallery of Kings.

The art and music of the middle ages has always inspired me. Cluny did not disappoint, from its exterior to the beautiful things within.

En route, I couldn't help but notice the bikes for rent (Velib) that are available throughout the city.

Rick would be in seventh heaven -- some of the time is "free" and the other rates were reasonable.

And, in spots, there are well-designated bike lanes.

Having said all that, I've gotta say that it totally freaked me out that I saw only a (literal) handful of helmets during my visit. No more than 10 total. Call me hypersensitive after Rick's multiple bike accidents and skull fractures, but the way people drove around there, I feared for them all.

Jerry had to work so after a crossant in the park (and my first visit to the grocery store -- more on that in another post), I continued on, returning to Shakespeare and Company to dig a bit more.

The books are in English...

...and on the second floor, none are for sale, just for reading on site!

Lots of clips, writing on the walls...

...and nooks with notes that remind one of its heritage.

But I had to run catch the bus to meet Jerry and friends of his for dinner. I got on the right line, passing the Louvre, Tuilleries, Place de Concord and more, with the Eifel Tower becoming larger and larger as we progressed.

But soon I realized it was TOO big -- I had overshot my stop (by quite a bit!) and backtracked!

Jerry's friends Gail and Benoit were loaning us their car for our weekend road trips, so we met them for dinner at TribecA, a cafe/restaurant. My dinner included a salad with fried goat cheese for 9 euros and creme brulee for six. Excellent. (Later I would take photos of my food; not tonight!)

After we parted, Jerry drove me around Paris at night -- the Eifel tower was lit and lovely.

We drove over the bridge under which Diana died and saw the memorial where people brought flowers...

...and then went up the Champs Elysee and say the Arch du Triomphe lit and beautiful.

I could imagine the Tour de France guys riding into Paris under this arch!

Off to bed. The feet were still holding up and the hideous shoes making up in comfort for what they lacked in style.

Things I learned today:

Missing your bus stop can be an unfortunate mistake.

Dogs are everywhere. Lots of Jack Russells, and mostly small or medium-sized dogs.

In Paris, driving is really scary. Being a passenger is scary, too. Truly, "maniac" seems the right word to describe Parisians behind the wheel.

The helmet thing -- or lack thereof. For a pretty enlightened society with great food, the cars, motorbikes and lack of helmets seem like a death wish!