Marching Through Books: Real People

What draws you to a certain book at a certain time? Maybe it is your favorite genre, a new entry by a beloved author or events swirling around you. This month's books weren't picked because they were about "real people," but that's how it ended up. Our March offerings take us from Amsterdam to Paris, Michigan to Japan, and to the war rooms and stages of England.

Paris in July 2019: Specialized Shopping in Paris

Whether one is window shopping or looking to buy, Paris certainly abounds with choices in just about every price range! But sometimes when one is traveling, the lookout is on for just the right thing! As I once again join the Paris in July blog festival, here's a look at some of my favorite specialty shopping in the City of Lights! If you have other favorites, please be sure to leave them in the comments because I know I will be back!

Art Supplies:

I had longed to visit Sennelier for many moons and last October, I got my wish. Established in 1887 by Gustave Sennelier and still run by family members, this classic art store seems to cram more merchandise into tall but very narrow space than most others I've visited. And it's good product.

The sketchbooks are by Hahnemuhle and Fabriano (among others) and while they do carry Golden paints, which I like very much, I was there for the Sennelier brand of juicy watercolors in a palette so big, I could hardly decide!

They are noted for their pastels, which Sennelier created especially for Edgar Degas including 30 shades of browns that the artist used from a collection of 700 colors. His grandson, Henri, later created oil pastels, specifically at the request of Pablo Picasso, in 1948.

 There are any number of art stores in Paris, but this one ticks both the art and the history boxes.

 English-Language Books

Visiting Paris, want a book but unable to read French? Not a problem!

A short walk east from Sennelier and you will find the legendary Shakespeare and Company with its selection of English language books and a long and fascinating history. There were actually two Shakespeare and Company bookstores. This is the second, which opened in 1951 on the banks of the Seine near Place Saint-Michel. (The first closed long ago.)

Among those who called it home were Allen Ginsberg, William S. Burroughs, James Baldwin, Lawrence Durrell, Bertolt Brecht and many others.

George Whitman had modeled his shop after the original, owned by Sylvia Beach. Originally named The mistral, Beach herself gave Whitman the name of her shop to use for his.

On the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare's birth, Whitman renamed his store "Shakespeare and Company," describing it "a novel in three words."

Look about! Type a bit on a vintage typewriter, imagining who else might have sat at this very spot.

Then soak up the atmosphere of the Tumbleweeds, writers, intellectuals and artists in need of a bed who were invited to sleep among the shop's shelves.

Their payment: They must read a book each day, assist several hours in the shop a day and write a one-page autobiography.

 Even if you're not into book shopping, take a peek in here!

Bread

Man does not live by bread alone, but one could live rather awhile on a two-kilo loaf from the renowned Poilane Boulangerie.

Located at 8 rue du Cherche Midi in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, this is the sight of the original Poilâne, which opened in 1932. It is still considered the bakery's flagship store.

The bakery's original owner was Lionel Poilane who used stone ground flour and a wood fired oven.  The shop also offers several types of bread and some delicious shortbread cookies. (Yes, I've had both the bread and the cookies!)

His son, also Lionel, continued the business, keeping largely to traditional methods with the exception of machine kneading.

There is a second Poilane on boulevard de Grenelle as well and one can arrange for tours. (We didn't do this, much to Rick's chagrin!)

The company is currently run by Apollonia Poilane, who holds her degree from Harvard University.

 Music

Let's just say that you are traveling with a classical guitarist who wants to maybe, just possibly, buy a new guitar while in Paris. And, if not that, at least some sheet music.

If so, the place to go is Rue du Rome area (Europe metro). There one will find numerous spots to entice the musician, whether looking for music or, say, a guitar!

Of course, there are more than shops for luthiers in the area. You could find a piano, a violin, brass instruments.

Some pretty heavy hitters have walked into these rooms and looking at the memorabilia on many shops walls is almost as much fun as shopping. (OK, if you don't happen to be the musician, it's more fun!)

Most of these shops are small and the proprietors are more than happy to let you try out the instruments ...

...or give you a little performance themselves.

It's the best free entertainment in town!

Of course, you can find, books, music, bread and art supplies in loads of places on Paris' streets. Enjoy!

This post is part of Paris In July, an annual blog event with posts related to France! Check out Tamara's site HERE for links!

Day Two -- Cluny, Shakespeare, Paris at Night

On day two -- Thursday -- I visited what was my favorite museum of the trip. The Musee National du Moyen Age.

It was a late start -- sleeping till noon and really not getting out till about three. (After waking and getting going, we had one of our lengthy telephone conversations with Air France. Or rather, Jerry talked with them. More would be coming...)

So, off we went, past the Pompidou Centre (and modern art museum, which to my mind was the ugliest building of all time. I couldn't even take a photo of it. This was the fountain in front of it. It would be fine in the right spot -- in Paris, it seemed all round.

Then a stop into Sainte Merri, a beautiful church that was worth every moment spent. (That's in the background of the ugly fountain.)

Churches are everywhere. Old.Massive. Filled with wonderful art. This one didn't disappoint.

(Now I'm panicking because I'm not sure if all of these are Saint Merri or if Notre Dame got mixed up in there! Purists, I am on guard for your input!)

We headed to the Left Bank and the Musee national du Moyen Age (aka Cluny) -- all medieval wonder including the renowned "Lady and the Unicorn" tapestries. This was my favorite museum of them all. In fact, after Cluny, everything else just sort of seemed like "a museum" to me. Lovely, certainly, and with wonderful art. But fairly typical.

The "Lady and the Unicorn" was simply astounding, representing the five senses and the sixth showing the lady renouncing the senses for purity. They are enormous, beautifully stitched and completely filling a large, rounded, darkened room (which is why the photos are a bit tinted and blurry, but I had to share at least one).

Other highlights included magnificent stained glass...

Many carved pieces, like this triptych...

Ancient busts...
And artifacts from daily life.

Given that it was the middle ages, many of the items had religious themes. I loved the books and very old sheet music.

The stone walls were striking.

The area was once the residence of the abbots of Cluny and was built on the ruins of Roman baths, starting is 1330 and continuing till 1485-1500. The vaulted ribs in a room that was once part of the Roman baths were stunning.

Another gallery included figurative sculpture from the facade of Notre Dame, including twelve heads of Kings of Judah from the Gallery of Kings.

The art and music of the middle ages has always inspired me. Cluny did not disappoint, from its exterior to the beautiful things within.

En route, I couldn't help but notice the bikes for rent (Velib) that are available throughout the city.

Rick would be in seventh heaven -- some of the time is "free" and the other rates were reasonable.

And, in spots, there are well-designated bike lanes.

Having said all that, I've gotta say that it totally freaked me out that I saw only a (literal) handful of helmets during my visit. No more than 10 total. Call me hypersensitive after Rick's multiple bike accidents and skull fractures, but the way people drove around there, I feared for them all.

Jerry had to work so after a crossant in the park (and my first visit to the grocery store -- more on that in another post), I continued on, returning to Shakespeare and Company to dig a bit more.

The books are in English...

...and on the second floor, none are for sale, just for reading on site!

Lots of clips, writing on the walls...

...and nooks with notes that remind one of its heritage.

But I had to run catch the bus to meet Jerry and friends of his for dinner. I got on the right line, passing the Louvre, Tuilleries, Place de Concord and more, with the Eifel Tower becoming larger and larger as we progressed.

But soon I realized it was TOO big -- I had overshot my stop (by quite a bit!) and backtracked!

Jerry's friends Gail and Benoit were loaning us their car for our weekend road trips, so we met them for dinner at TribecA, a cafe/restaurant. My dinner included a salad with fried goat cheese for 9 euros and creme brulee for six. Excellent. (Later I would take photos of my food; not tonight!)

After we parted, Jerry drove me around Paris at night -- the Eifel tower was lit and lovely.

We drove over the bridge under which Diana died and saw the memorial where people brought flowers...

...and then went up the Champs Elysee and say the Arch du Triomphe lit and beautiful.

I could imagine the Tour de France guys riding into Paris under this arch!

Off to bed. The feet were still holding up and the hideous shoes making up in comfort for what they lacked in style.

Things I learned today:

Missing your bus stop can be an unfortunate mistake.

Dogs are everywhere. Lots of Jack Russells, and mostly small or medium-sized dogs.

In Paris, driving is really scary. Being a passenger is scary, too. Truly, "maniac" seems the right word to describe Parisians behind the wheel.

The helmet thing -- or lack thereof. For a pretty enlightened society with great food, the cars, motorbikes and lack of helmets seem like a death wish!