This England: Exploring Bath

All things considered, we woke relatively rested for our first full day in Bath -- and a beautiful one it was. Rick decided it was a perfect day to rent a bike and go on a long ride. I decided to go into the city. Erika asked in the last post if we had a car available or used the bus. For us, it was the bus -- usually (with a couple of exceptions) a very reliable way to get around the area.

So on this morning, I hustled down to the bus, only to stand waiting and waiting. Finally, I wondered if I might be in the wrong place (or had just missed the one before, which is what I realized had happened). Hope and Anchor had turned their closed sign to open so I crossed back over and asked if I might get a cup of tea and a little advice.

Oh, what great people these are! Sandra, the owner, and Spencer, her son (and the pub's manager) were so generous with both their time, tea and expertise, refusing to let me pay and filling me in on the bus and the app that would prove to be very helpful. I shared how much we loved our dinner the night before and how fabulous that steak and ale pie was and Sandra told me her husband was the chef.

One of our waiters (sorry I don't have his name), Spencer and Sandra at the Hope and Anchor.

They had come from Canada and bought a different pub in the next village from Midford and had just started when Covid hit and everyone was locked in. At some point during or right after, the Hope and Anchor came up for sale, so they bought that one, too. It was quite a change for them -- he had been an executive at Motorola and she was an interior designer. Spencer had just graduated from university and their younger son from high school and the timing was right. Sandra's mother-in-law lived in England and it seemed like the right place to be. Despite the slow start due to Covid, it has been a good fit.

About 45 minutes later, well fortified by the tea and company, and with a more reliable bus schedule, I was off to explore Bath. I was first taken by the way these ubiquitous telephone booths had been turned into lovely pieces of living art.

Another was used to house a defibrillator!

I wandered toward the Abbey, hoping to get a lunch at Sally Lunn's, the oldest pub in the area and in business since 1680. But the line was so long I opted to move on.

Bath Abbey is lovely. There is an admission charge but I found you can get a good look at it through its very nice adjacent gift shop. 

I especially love the fan vaults on the ceiling and the beautiful stained glass!

Then it was off to the Royal Crescent. My photos don't do it justice. You really need to see it from the air. And you probably have if you watch much British film or television! 

The museum One Royal Crescent is a historic home set to reflect life in Georgian times. I was impressed by how they handled the self-guided tour. One started in the dining room. If you look at the paintings on the wall, you will see they are actually video projections of a husband and wife talking over the breakfast  table about an upcoming party and their daughter's "chances" to find a mate at the gala. 

The table was beautifully set and hearing the voices without a headset attached was clever and worked well.

Then it was on to the study where the husband and his son were in discussion about a business deal. The details were lovely.

Upstairs we visit the daughter's room where her gown for the party is laid out and we hear a bit about the upcoming event. We also see her wig and accessories.

Another room is set for the master of the house to prepare for bed with his dressing gown and nightcap laid out.

I really liked the parlor. When music played on the harpsichord in the audio, it was very lightly projected on the wall.

So, too, was a conversation between Mother and Daughter, which you can see reflected on the back walls. When the conversation concluded, the walls returned to simply reflect the wallpaper. It's very clever -- informative but unobtrusive.

The money of many of the Georgians was tied up in the transatlantic slave trade, which is not a lovely legacy. In fact, by the 1730s, Britain was the world's dominant slave-trading nation. Slaves labored on plantations on British colonies and products were shipped back to Britain where they were sold for enormous profits, making those involved in the business even wealthier.

 

A poster tells us that most in Bath benefited from the slave trade, either through plantation ownership or by holding shares in companies engaged in slave trade.  Active opposition ended the trade in 1807 but it wasn't until 1833 that Britain passed the Slave Abolition Act, abolishing slavery in the colonies.

After leaving One Royal Crescent (which I would recommend), I headed toward the river to get tickets to the rugby game the next day. I stopped by the river for a snack (and to rest my feet!).

It was a gorgeous day and fun to watch people and the touring boats going up the river. Flowers were still in bloom.

But then it was off to the stadium in hopes to nab two seats. I was lucky. The game, between Bath and nearby Bristol, is a local rivalry and tickets were at a premium.

 

Time to head back!

Travel Tips:

• Find out the local happening and join in. The rugby game wasn't on my radar but it sounded fun. Had we been a bit smarter, we might have purchased tickets in advance and in fact, had tried, but the website was confusing. Local sports, theatre, or festivals add to the energy of a city and a good way to get a good feel for it.
  

• Check your area for bus apps, which will help save time and provide choices, if available. We did not have mobile data for our phones but could use wifi when near or public wifi, and for the most part, that worked pretty well (and saved us a bundle.)   

 (You can check out our intro to Bath on this trip HERE)