Paris In July: Modern and Traditional

In so many ways, Paris, the City of Lights, is one of the most traditional cities in the world. It maintains its old world charm amidst the bustle of contemporary life.

But there are contrasts if you look for them. Take the Metro signs, for example.  These are the classic art nouveau-style signs designed by or based on designs by Hector Guimard, who worked between 1900 and 1913. His work ussed glass and cast iron and lettering in the Art Nouveau style. The one below is at Abbesses.

The lettering is exquisite.

I confess, I love these and this style most of all!

Many of these are long gone but those that remain are considered protected historical monuments.

The Guimard style was used but in simpler formats at other sites.

In th 1920s, the Val d'Osne variant came into being. Named after an iron foundary, this one, located not far from Les Invalides, has the globe surrounded by an ornate cast-iron frieze.

These days, the signs are a mish mash of the classical and contemporary such as this one.

But don't stop there! There are loads of Metro signs so the best thing to do is consult your map and head to the location and look for either the letter "M" or the word "Metro."

Yes, you will see cars and scooters galore in Paris. And many are very small!

Smart cars may not provide a lot of room, but it makes parking much easier!

On the other hand, you can go the traditional way. This fellow was cycling around the Arc du Triumphe. Which, I might add, took guts!

 Architecture? It doesn't take much looking about in Paris to go traditional. There is the Opera Garnier (the Paris Opera House)...

The inside is as dazzling and traditional as one can get!

But go modern, too! The Institute Arabe Monde is a fascinating building with elements that change in front of your eyes, based on the light.

The Pompidou houses contemporary art with its mechanical workings on the outside of the building rather than the inside.

In front of the Pompidou, check out The Stravinsky Fountain. But for the more traditional, visit the classic St. Merri, which you can see here in the background.

And art? There are the traditional museums, like the Louvre.

Here you can check out all the classics...

...if you can handle the crowds!

 Or be part of the art with the installations at the Atelier des Lumieres.

These photos are from the Klimt production but the current program is Van Gogh (through December, 2019). Highly recommended. The art swirls around you, on the floor, the walls and on the faces of the visitors, all with a beautiful musical score.

I found it breathtaking.

Paris is as contemporary as today's news stories...

...and as traditional as you like it.

Fortunately, some things never change. The Seine will continue to cut through the city, dividing the left and right banks.

Children will continue to sail their boats in the ponds of the Tuileries and Jardin du Luxembourg (here).

 And at the end of a long day (or maybe even before!) a glass of wine will be waiting.

This post is part of Paris in July, a month long blogging event featuring books, film, food, travel and all things French!

Check out Tamara's site here for the most current links!

A Day at the Louvre

This and other posts are part of the "Paris Tour" party on Anita's blog, "Castles, Crowns and Cottages." The links are at the bottom of her lovely post HERE.) 

Let me begin this post by saying I really love art.

So, when I tell you I really did NOT love the Louvre, you need to know:
It it has nothing to do with the art!

 Our first "visit" to the Louvre was its exterior, with its controversial pyramid against the classic architecture, once a palace for kings and emperors. Originally built in 1190 as a fortress to protect Paris from Viking raids, it was later replaced with a Renaissance-style building that was enlarged over four centuries of kings.

As we walked to our tube stop, we noticed that life never stops at the Louvre. Upkeep of this massive museum is never ending.

We returned the next day, geared up for seeing great art. This is what we first saw.

Lines. Everywhere lines. (We should have taken Rick Steves' advice about going in the evening.) But it's worth it.After passing through security, we did get to enjoy some art -- stunning sculpture was first on the list.

We wandered about, overwhelmed by the beauty of the art, its preservation, the lighting, and the massive scope of things. I won't bore you with every bit we saw that we loved, but there were plenty. And then we discovered this...

Napoleon's apartments.

These are the apartments of Napoleon III ??? They were lavish in every detail.

This was the back wall of the Salon de Petit Dejunner, or Breakfast room.

But it couldn't hold a candle in size to the dining room!

We were both in awe, stopping to really savor all the details.

The tapestry gallery was stunning as well -- oh, how I'd love to have one of those in my house (despite the fact that none of the walls are big enough!)

Although I loved the decorative arts, I really wanted to see the paintings, and the Louvre doesn't disappoint with gallery after gallery of art by the great masters. We saw signs toward the Mona Lisa. When we arrived at the gallery where she was located, this is what we saw!

And, this is about as close as we got -- no point in battling the crowds to see the wee but lovely Leonardo da Vinci piece when there was so much other amazing art around.

 This Leonardo, a quiet portrait, is a fine substitute.

 As was this portrait from Ecole de Leonard da Vinci.Do you think the students had the technique of the master?

 This Ingres I remembered from my art history classes is a great example.

 The famous portrait of Mme. Recamier was always a favorite of mine, too.

 The massive David painting of the coronation of the Empress Josephine was a crowd pleaser and with good reason.

It was beautifully done, with many fine details.

 Students found the galleries a place to study and sketch.

 I wonder if this guy gets nervous when people are watching him draw?!

 There are amazing galleries -- gold that can't quit. One feels very small in these massive rooms.

 This one celebrated Louis XIV.

 I loved the detailed panels that clearly led to a salon that wasn't open to the public, at least that day.

 Every now and then I would glance out the window -- and was glad I was inside. This photo reminded me of a Monet that might be at the Musee d'Orsay across the street!

We were eager to find the paintings of the Dutch, Flemish and those from the North. I was fond of this Holbein portrait of "Anne of Cleves," having recently discovered "The Tudors" on BBC America.

I think I took a photo of every guitar or lute painting we saw for Rick!

One of our favorite rooms was nearly empty -- it featured these tall panels by Rubens -- about 24 of them and all exquisite. I couldn't help but think that the people struggling to get a photo of Mona might never discover this real gem.

I was pleased to discover our first Vermeer of the trip -- we'll learn more about him in future posts when we get to Holland.

It was a long day. Earlier on, we'd see people walking by with glassy stares. They were done, they'd hit the wall. I hit a point where my stare was not unlike theirs and the look on my face? Something like this!

There are techniques to visit the Louvre and have a more satisfying experience. I would recommend one of Rick Steves' excellent guide book on tips to less crowded entrances and least crowded visiting times. But if you love art, I think you will find many familiar friends at the Louvre and truly be amazed by the skill and talent of the remarkable artists included.

Lessons Learned:

Bring your lunch. There are spots to eat at the Louvre. Some are expensive, all are crowded. The last thing you want to do is (as we did) spend close to an hour in line for a piece of pizza and a small salad at about $13 (10 euros). (There are also restaurants in the shopping area attached and you can re-enter the museum. We didn't think of this until later.)

Take advantage of the benches when you see them. All that slow movement on hard floors is tough on the lower back.

If you are going during the day, go early! And check guide books for the best possible times to visit.

Next time, we'll meet a blog friend and have a terrific tour of Montmartre!

Don't Forget -- Comments on these and other posts in this current series about Paris (or Gypsy) are entered into my drawing celebrating 800 posts!