London: National Gallery

As we arrived in the West End, one building you can't miss from Trafalgar Square is the imposing National Gallery. The building is the third to house the National Gallery and was designed by William Wilkins from 1832-1838. There are additions to it that are far more contemporary and even somewhat controversial in design. (By the way, for a great post about Trafalgar Square, visit Mike's A Bit About Britain here. In fact, for anything related to England, make sure you stop at Mike's blog! His posts are terrific, well researched and filled with loads of fun trivia bits you wish you knew before you visited!)

It also houses one of the most magnificent art collections in the world.

One could spend days at the National Gallery. We didn't have that much time, having first enjoyed the guitar exhibit at Canada House. So we opted for some of the classics and older pieces, starting with some of the beautiful religious pieces.

I was sitting down during our trip, Rick wheeling me through, so most of my photos are a tad off kilter, shooting "up" and I don't have all the names of the pieces I'm sharing here, but this is a sample of what we enjoyed.

I particularly liked the colors and delicacy of this one, although that's one pretty ugly baby face and out of proportion to the skinny body. But I do love the fruit.

The goldwork here was tasteful and quite lovely.

Moving forward in time, this is my favorite of all of Leonardo's work, the reason why I wanted to visit the National Gallery the first time in 1973 and the reason I wanted to go back. It is his interpretation of the Madonna with Saint Anne.

The painting is in a small room with another of my favorite Leonardos, The Madonna of the Rocks.

When the large tour group admiring this painting left, I could get a better view!

Just look at that fabulous face!

I should remember who did this and the title -- it's one I've always loved. Laura Ingalls Gunn, feel free to weigh in on any of this. Your art history degree is far more current than my studies long ago!

Another of my favorites is Jan Van Eyck's Marriage of Jan Arnolfini and his Wife. (Also: The Arnolfini Marriage, The Arnolfini Wedding and The Arnolfini Portrait.) I'm pretty sure you can't see this in the photo unless you can click it to original size but if you look at the convex mirror in the back, you see the image from the back of the wedding couple.

It also seemed to attract quite a following. Maybe not Mona Lisa crowds, but certainly seemed to be a favorite of others.

I did find this painting of Saint Barbara dong in 1437 quite different from much of Van Eyck's work and rather enigmatic. The palm branch in her hand indicates her martyrdom.  Although signed and dated on the original frame, it is unknown whether the artist considered it finished. I find it perfect. (Just think of that -- over 500 years old, closer to 600, and still so beautiful.)

Vermeer is a favorite of mine. I'd already seen one of his at Kenwood, again with an instrument. This one spoke to me...

...as did this one.

I don't remember who did this one. We didn't have time for the gift shop but if we had, I would have bought something that featured this painting. The faces are so trusting and you can just feel the relationship.

I'm also fond of the artists from the Netherlands, like Landscape with Travellers and Peasants on a Track, done in 1610 by Jan Brueghel the Elder.

...and this wonderful piece by Hendrick Avercamp. This is the kind of painting that really lets your imagination go. I can envision showing this to a group of writing students and letting them develop stories for one or more of the characters.

And of course there were the Rembrandts. He had quite the section of his portraits. Also from the Netherlands, Rembrandt aspired to paint biblical subjects, considered more prestigious than portraits. But after he settled in Amsterdam he enjoyed tremendous success in portraiture.

He did at least 40 self portraits. We saw one at Kenwood. Here is another...

...and another.

And this is his wife, Saskia.

Much of the rich collection of Impressionist work in England is at the Tate Britain. But here is a VanGogh you may recognize...

...or perhaps you prefer one of his sunflowers.

And of course, there is Monet, painting Paris' Gare St. Lazare.

 We could have gone on and on, enjoying the Turners (they are enormous) and Raphaels, Rubens and Titians. Constables, Gainsboroughs, Renoirs and more. But it was getting dark.

Time to go to the theatre!

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London: Kenwood House

Day two in London found Jenny and I splitting up with Rick and T, and you'll hear more about doing our own thing next time. But in the morning Jenny and I visited one of the loveliest historic homes in London, Kenwood House. It was a different experience than Gunnersby Park (HERE)  the day before -- both remarkable but very unique in scope and style.

Fans of "Notting Hill" might recognize the exterior from the scene where Julia Roberts is shooting a period movie on location.

One enters the building through a wooded path at the back.

You see the rear of the house first, which is pretty nice -- but doesn't hold a candle to the front!

And then there is the interior! The house was built in the early 17th century but it hit its peak in the mid-1700s when William Murray, the 1st Earl of Mansfield, purchased the home and asked legendary architect Robert Adam to remodel it.

The rooms are drop-dead gorgeous with rich details and beautiful and valuable art and artifacts.

Adam added what might be one of my favorite rooms of all time -- the neoclassical library. (Every now and then you realize you should have photographed something horizontally!)

Well, I did a little horizontal -- but it doesn't really show the scope!

It's like a symphony in candy colors -- pale pinks and blues with embossed Grecian-inspired figures, reminiscent of the work of contemporary Josiah Wedgewood.

The ceiling, highly arched and continuing the theme surrounding the room was glorious.

Here's a detail from the ceiling.

And I admired the tall columns supporting the room and how it just "worked" with the colors.

And the details! Oh!

I could have stayed in this room forever.

In 1925, Lord Iveagh, a wealthy businessman and philanthropist and part of the Guinness family purchased the house from the Mansfields and when he died two years later, he left it to the nation. The year after his death it was open to the public. The grounds were protected by the Kenwood Preservation Council.

Lord Iveagh was an enthusiastic art collector and the collection you see at Kenwood is extensive. What might be one of the most valuable paintings in the UK, a self-portrait of Rembrandt, is on display.

You'll also find a Vermeer...

...a Constable...

...Franz Halls, Thomas Gainsborough, Turner and Van Dyck, among others.

The house has also been featured in films besides "Notting Hill," most notably the 1995 feature "Sense and Sensibility." Although the 2013 "Belle," about Wililam Murray's mixed-race daughter, was "set" at Kenwood and its grounds, the movie was actually filmed in a variety of other locations.

One could also find intriguing items like the first wheelchair!

 It was designed by John Joseph Merlin, painted here by Thomas Gainsborough.

The lighting fixtures and work on the stairwell banisters was beautiful. So, too, was the gallery of portrait miniatures and mourning jewelry, though my photos didn't turn out so well on that.

Don't forget to look up!

I did, however, love this Asian-inspired fireplace.

It is a remarkable and lovely experience to see some of the world's great art in the setting of a private home, with furniture and accessories, as opposed to a gallery wall.

We are seeing art the way it was most likely created to be seen -- in a personal space. And it makes a tremendous difference in the feeling one has when observing it.

I would be remiss in not sharing some of the beautiful Kenwood exteriors. The building itself is a stunner, though I didn't get far enough away to capture the entire facade in one photo!

It is set on parkland and I enjoyed seeing people relaxing there.

There was a bit of fall in the air, too. I was missing fall in the states, so while I didn't see a lot of vibrant trees during our trip, this was a day that scored a delightful view!

I loved the little gift shop exterior as well. I may have to paint this one!

All in all, Kenwood is a real treat and highly recommended.

Travel Tips: 

•  Kenwood House is located in Hampstead and one can make a day of it there. We were fortunate to drive there. It is about a 20 minute walk from the tube (according to Trip Advisor) but the 210 bus takes one closest.
• If you drive, pay close attention to your parking meter time. They do, as we found out.
• If you plan to go by public transportation, choose a nice day as you may be walking across the heath.
• Kenwood House and the grounds are free. One can bring a picnic to enjoy on the grounds or Hampstead Heath or purchase food onsite. 
• We didn't have time to check out the shops but it looked like a charming town to visit as well and might be worth a look.

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