Montmartre

As I was nearing the end of my visit, I couldn't help but think of Edith Piaf, the Pigalle, the artists of Montmartre and Moulin Rouge -- all things I'd heard about but not yet seen.

Montmartre had been on my list to visit, partly because of its artist's area (the quintessential Paris image for me -- the street artist!), Sacre Coeur and its fabulous view.

So, on Wednesday evening, we headed up to this area, picnic in hand.

One arrives at Montmartre via Metro and then a small cab called the Funiculaire, which boosts you up the rest of the very steep hill. (You can walk. Yes, you can.) -- that's the stop, under the canopy below.

That takes you to the steps of Sacre Coeur, which is a handsome cathedral and one I'd seen from afar.

Sacre Coeur was the only church I visited where one couldn't photograph inside. But its exteriors, particularly in the early evening light, were stunning enough.

Sacre Coeur was started in 1875, but not complete until 1914. When you see this massive structure, high on Montmartre, you can see why.

Although this was the only church where photos weren’t allowed, one should know has glorious features – one of those “takes your breath away” spaces, but in a darker, more cavernous way than the delicate Sainte Chappelle. The doors are heavy bronze and the exterior includes a statue of Joan of Arc and Saint Louis by H. Lefebere.

After visiting the church, we stopped at St. Pierre next door (a lovely tower)...

Then it was off to the Place du Tertre, a square around which are cafés, restaurants, and many artists, both working and selling their wares.

When I think of Paris, this is what I think of. Perhaps less contrived – more like “an artist here, an artist there” (more like my experience at Jardin du Luxembourg). But this will do!

My guide book says “tertre” is hillock or mound, and this square, at the highest point in Paris, is well named. Artists began exhibiting paintings here in the 19th century.

Now, you find them painting portraits (no doubt at extraordinary prices), doing caricatures and selling their wares.

Some were very nice – both Jerry and I enjoyed the scenic Paris this more abstract artist captured.

And I also loved the sepia and white acrylics, again of Parisian scenes.

It was here, at Chez Eugene, that we found a kindly waiter who opened our bottle of wine, since our corkscrew was at home! Our picnic was on the steps of Sacre Coeur, overlooking the city.

It was particlarly lovely as the sun began to dip and the shadows lengthened.

And of course the juggler added some entertainment value...

...as if people watching wasn't enough! We could see the Pompidou Museum several blocks from Jerry's apartment, as well as the Eifel Tower, Notre Dame and other landmarks.

After our picnic, we walked down the hill – We passed by a restaurant called Au Lapin Agile, which has a long history as an artist’s hangout….

We also passed the Moulin de la Galette, a restaurant upon which remained one of the only two original windmills on Montmartre (used for grinding wheat and pressing grapes).

The windmill was also once a dance hall, which inspired this Renoir painting, "Bal du Moulin de la Galette" in 1876.

Then down the hill some more ....

Where we encountered my favorite sign...

And then some more...

Past some lovely buildings, cafes, and shops...

When we got to the bottom, it was nearly dark. It was there we saw the bright lights of a different Moulin (windmill) – the famed Moulin Rouge, where they do old Paris Vegas-style.

I also loved the Metro signs, often seeking out these deco-styled ones -- only a few remain in Paris. It seemed quite appropriate that one should be in this area.

My take on this area? Great view, and I'm glad we went -- it was fun to picnic, see the artists, and the beautiful Sacre Coeur. While we we didn't visit the Dali museum, which I would have enjoyed, Montmartre was picturesque, a pretty hopping place.

But I wouldn't need to go back. Except maybe to shoot more photos of those Metro signs! And, if you're visiting for only a brief time (I was lucky -- I had nearly two weeks), you may want to pass it up for other spots, although the price was right! Free!

Things I Learned Today:

I never knew about this funiclaire thing! That was kind of fun!

The original Paris Metro signs are absolutely beautiful. I’m so glad I had the opportunity to see several – particularly in this very old district.

My idea of Paris is not this decade. It’s probably 1930s through 1970s – with a bit of the late 1800s thrown in. I love the Paris I see, but I’m periodically adjusting my expectations!

My "audio soundtrack" of Paris doesn't apply anymore. I'm not hearing Piaffy-type singers, or concertinas, or music you expect to hear from a French film of the 70s or an Audrey Hepburn flick. I shouldn't be surprised about this -- that's vintage. I guess I am, too. The music I hear everywhere (not just Montmartre) is pretty much the same as I hear in the States -- but in French...

You can literally see for miles from Montmartre and the view is lovely.

In Paris, no one seems to care if you have open wine bottles or picnic on the street -- or church steps.

One becomes spoiled being allowed to take photos everywhere and when they say you can't, one is taken aback! At least, this one was!