La Belle Quebec -- Travel Tips

Our trip to Quebec was tres magnifique! Here are a few tips that might be good ones to remember for your trip to Quebec -- or anyplace! Some of these may be familiar friends to you for any trip, but if nothing else, a good reminder!

Wear Comfy Shoes!

In some cities you can get by with fashionable footwear and be reasonably comfortable. Not me. I have orthotics that make even nice shoes look a little clunky. While we didn't plan to go about looking scuzzy, we did determine that this was a city where comfy shoes were a must and with the hills, I'm glad we did. Which leads me to...

Practice Walking Prior to Your Visit

This may be a given if you walk regularly but even if you do, if you know you'll be dealing with hills, you might want to get off the flats, whether it's on the treadmill or a real hill! Especially if you are wheeling your luggage up or down with you!

Currency Exchange

Some banks have reciprocal arrangements with foreign banks for no-fee atm money exchange. If not, pull what you think you'll need in cash all at once to save additional fees (and of course most credit cards are accepted). We knew our B&B took American checks or cash so I was covered there. Think about things you might not want to charge -- ground transportation, small purchases. Remember, many banks and credit unions have a credit card use fee for foreign exchanges, so factor that into your currency exchange rate before deciding whether to use cash or charge.

 Explore Alternative Transportation

Rick would tell you to ride, but if a 900-mile bike trip isn't your idea of a good time, there are other options! Feet are the obvious one here, but also be aware of bus or Metro lines. And I can't recommend the train highly enough. While in a tourist city with carriage rides? Well, if you can afford it, go for it -- looked fun to me!

Parlez vous Francais? Give it a try!

Quebec is a province where French is the primary language and English secondary. Pretty much everyone we talked with spoke English but it was fun and I think appreciated when we could at least be polite in French at the least and give a conversation a try as well. Menu French will be useful too -- most menus we saw were bi-lingual but not all. I think no matter what the country, even if you have a few words -- please, thank you, excuse me, hello, goodbye and a few others, it lets people know you are trying to be with them and part of the country you are visiting. (Most will immediately come to your aid, we've found, and between the two of you, all gets answered!)

Consider Buying Art

Quebec is an artist's mecca and there are loads of galleries. Some pieces are very high priced, others more reasonable. Galleries are very willing to compromise on shipping costs and there wasn't a one that didn't say "we will ship the painting after the first payment and the first ten months are interest free." The shipping helps skip duty taxes and you get to enjoy the painting in your own home. If the galleries are still too pricey for you, consider the street artists or a print from a shop.

Breakfast-Snack-Dinner

If you have a good B&B, as we did, consider a mid-morning breakfast, mid-afternoon light snack like soup or sharing a sandwich and then a nice dinner.

Don't forget the Table d'Hote -- all three courses are included and you often have a variety of selections for your main dish and sides. It's an economical way to enjoy a lovely meal, versus ordering a la carte.

And speaking of being economical...

Consider What's free and What's Not

No one loves a good museum more than I do. But many have costs attached and if you commit to an indoor attraction that will take a couple of hours, that's two hours less to explore, which matters if your time in a city or country is brief. We chose to skip museums this time. (Next time, I'd take in at least one or two.) I'm glad we did. We covered a lot of territory and the art we saw, which, while not as famous as a great master, was delightful, diverse and fun for us to see. In addition, chats with a gallery manager gave us loads of information about technique or the artists we liked.

It's more than the museums. Major cities often have street performers and lots of them are fun and worth a watch. Check out the hotel lobbies. Some, like the Frontenac, have interesting displays that convey the history of the city or the building. And be bold! If you walk like you belong there, no one will much care if you take the elevator to the 17th floor, look out the window and get a look at the view!

Our ferry ride cost far less than a cruise and was both fun and gave us more time to explore. Souvenirs from the grocery store may be more fun (and less expensive in some cases) than one from a gift store -- and who needs another magnet? 

Local Favorites

Be sure to find out what events are occurring during your visit, if any, and plan for them. Your host at a B&B or hotel concierge will be helpful and there are newspapers and brochures that include this info as well in most cities.

Venture Outside the Wall

If you're in Quebec, the Vieux Quebec area is magical, old world and wonderful. I could stay there forever, I think. But we didn't see a tenth of the city. If your visit is short, limit your choices but if you have a longer time, get outside your residential area and see a little more.

And, say you're not in a walled city -- then what? Well, get out of your familiar neighborhood, take the bus or the Metro or the Tube and check out another area. Why not? You may only be there once.

Brush Up on Your History

If you are headed to Quebec or many European countries, you may not be familiar with their history and the names you hear may mean little to you. My knowledge of French  Canadian history, for example, came courtesy of "Bury You Dead," a Louise Penny mystery into which explorer Samuel de Champlain played a major (albeit posthumous) role. And we all know how history and fiction can get mixed up in our minds! I'm not saying you have to be a scholar, but your experience will be a bit richer if you have a bit of a head start!

Pace Yourself!

There is nothing worse than being on holiday and trying to do it all -- and then the next day you can hardly move or you're really wiped out -- and there is still loads to do! Of course you want to make the most of your time but those places will be there should you love them enough to return.

I tend to favor not being with a tour group as it gives me time to make my own choices and my own timetable.  More than once I've heard someone say "we only had fifteen minutes to shop before we had to go back to the bus." Sometimes (and some places) that's the only way to go, but I heartily recommend giving a try to going alone, maybe booking a tour for a special place that might be out of your zone.

There's something nice about a leisurely lunch in a cafe or taking a long time in a store that appeals to you or simply sitting and enjoying the scene. If you do your homework, you may well discover that this is the way to go!

Most of all, Have Fun!

That's what travel is all about. Meeting new people (we met a couple at our B&B from Cleveland where my family is and it turned out their son dated my cousin's daughter in high school!), chatting with your B&B host or waiters, trying a new local food or making a new discovery is part of what travel is about for me!

Thanks for joining me on this recap! I hope you'll give Quebec City a thought when planning an exciting holiday!

Miss anything -- here are links to Day One (Arrival) / Our terrific B&B / Day Two, Morning / Day Two, Afternoon /  Day Three / Three Churches / The Murals / Au Revoir

La Belle Quebec, Au Revoir

And so, as all good things come to an end, it was time to leave. Rick packed up his bike and we bid farewell to Guitta and our B&B.

Then a short walk to the train station. Downhill, thank goodness, though when dragging luggage, that isn't quite as easy as it seems!

We had to arrive early so Rick could check his bike but that gave us some time so we enjoyed a few quiet moments by the lovely fountain outside. Take a look at that sky. Figures. The day you leave, the sun is out full force!

Our destination? Montreal. We were taking the train to Toronto (I was going on to London) and due to connections we'd have an overnight. We arrived several hours later and were ravenous, not having eaten since Guitta fed us so well that morning. We found a fabulous restaurant called Industria next door to our hotel that is worth mentioning.

Rick had the orichette, I had the pizza Calbrese (and we shared). Both were outstanding!

 

Then our room at the Alt Hotel -- with its fabulous view.

The next morning it was the train to Toronto. We no sooner arrived that Rick changed into his bike clothes and was off on his bike to meet me and Suzanne later part way to London.

I, on the other hand, found myself in a great city with about an hour to spare on the day of the eclipse! The sun was bright as could be and we saw no shadow overtake it, but the bellhop at the Royal York, across from the train station, gave me a glimpse through his special glasses. It was remarkable. But I couldn't keep his glasses, so I did the next best thing. I took shelter in the Royal York.

Think about it. Sit in a train lobby for an hour or sit here? After all, I was in good company!

Yes, I thought so!

Canada is celebrating 150 years (although that's the British 150; the French might have something to say about that!) They are encouraging tourism and I recommend it too!

The rest of the story is cut and dried -- a solo train jaunt for me, reuniting with my wonderful friend in London and hopping in the car to get Rick at our meeting point. More or less. It would be home the next day.

There's one more post in this series -- travel tips. While they are especially useful if you're headed to Quebec, you'll find they may well apply to other destinations, too!

Miss anything -- here are links to Day One (Arrival) / Our terrific B&B / Day Two, Morning / Day Two, Afternoon /  Day Three / Three Churches / The Murals / 

La Belle Quebec - The Murals

A few spots in Quebec City deserve special mention, among them, Place Royale, site of one of the first successful settlements in New France and considered the birthplace of Quebec City.

Samuel de Champlain first established his trading post on this site in 1608. (tinted stones mark the dimensions of the spot.) The site has been preserved just as it was during the 1700s, despite a ruinous fire in 1662 and attacks from the British, who captured the city in 1759.)

It is the site of Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (or Our Lady of Victories) church. The original church (destroyed in a fire during the siege of Quebec) was built on the foundations of Samuel de Champlain's trading post. It was so named in 1690, following a French victory over the English. In 1711, when yet another attempt by the Brits to take Quebec failed, the original word "Victory" in the name was changed to the present "Victories."

It is a lovely building, not at all flashy and well restored. (More about this church in THIS POST.)

Keep walking and you'll come across a remarkable mural. In the past couple of decades, fresco paintings have been done in the city highlighting Quebec's urban heritage. The murals depict the city's history and are remarkable for their size and scale.

The first was finished in 1999 and is called La Fresque des Quebecois. Many of the city's historical figures are included such as Samuel de Champlain, Jacques Cartier, Lord Dufferin and more.

Done in the trompe l'oeil style, they feature architectural monuments and elements such as the city's coat of arms, cultural communities such as French and British settlers, the religious community, the people's love for hockey and the lovers who find Quebec City a romantic place.

Have you heard the expression "a stiff drink" before? We happened to be near a tour guide pointing out some of the things on this mural and he pointed out the gentlemen below, taking a cask down the steps. He explained that in the days before embalming, those dying far away might be transported home, preserved in a cask of alcohol. Lord Nelson was presumably in this situation, following his death in the Battle of Trafalgar. Hence, the expression. (Snopes does back this up, by the way, with some exclusions!)

Shortly beyond this you can see excavations -- always looking into the past.

This mural (and the square) can also be viewed from above as one climbs toward Haute Ville.

A view of the Square from above.

The second mural is called La Fresque du Petit Champlain and depicts key stages in the history of a working class Quebec neighborhood, displaying trade activities, fishing and historical events.

As you wander Quebec, be sure to take a look at these murals. (And if you're lucky enough to latch onto a tour guide who knows what he's talking about, you're in for an extra treat!)

Miss anything -- here are links to Day One (Arrival) / Our terrific B&B / Day Two, Morning / Day Two, Afternoon /  Day Three / Three Churches /

Linking up with Share Your Cup.

La Belle Quebec: Trois Eglises

While I'm not one to hit every church in site when I travel, I do love and appreciate the architecture and flavor of various churches, as well as their histories, so while I Quebec City, I checked out a few.

Notre-Dame-des-Victoires is a Roman Catholic church and it is located in Basse Ville (Lower Town) of Quebec City. The original church was started in 1687 on the first town square in the city and built on the site of Samuel de Champlain's original outpost. It was completed in 1723.

In the late 1600s it received the name Notre-Dame-de-la-Victoire because the English were forced to retreat, providing a victory for the French. The "s" was added at the end in 1711 when a British fleet was sunk during bad weather.

The church we see today was restored in 1816 when the original was destroyed in large part by a battle with the British that preceded the famed Battle of the Plains of Abraham in 1759.  It offers worship services and is quite a tourist site. In 1929 it was listed a National Historic Site of Canada.

I liked its clean simplicity, a minimum of the gold that so many churches seem to sport and the airy feel. Note the ship hanging from the rafters over the congregation.

It may be a myth or perhaps this is only in France but several years ago I learned that those in the fishing and shipping communities of Brittany in France often hung a boat over the congregation, a reminder of prayers for the safe return of the seafarers. In this case, it is a model of the ship Breze, commandeered by by Marquis de Tracy, a lieutenant governor in New France in the mid-`1600s.

Much of New France included those from Brittany and located on the shores of the St. Lawrence River, perhaps this is the reason the ship takes prime space.

The second church we visited was The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, which is the home of the Anglican Diocese of Quebec and home to two parishes.

Founded in 1793, the building of a cathedral was a special project of the Diocese's first bishop.  The building took four years to build and was completed in 1804, the first Anglican cathedral built outside of the British Isles. It was designated a Historic Site in 1989.

The church was modeled after St. Martin in the Fields (London) and Marlebone Chapel in the Palladian Style and funded by King George III, who provided a folio Bible.

Alas, I have no photos of the remarkable Georgian silver exhibit that was there during our visit, or the bible but it was magnificent.

The church has a wide center and wide side aisles and magnificent stained glass at the altar. Surrounding the altar are the words to the Lord's Prayer, the Ten Commandments and the Apostle's Creed. Notably simple and elegant and design, there is a minimum of gold leaf, primarily on the arches.

The third church was the Cathedral-Basilica of Notre-Dame de Quebec. It is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Quebec, which is the oldest in the Americas north of Florida. It is also a National Historic Site and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The church has been at this site since 1647, though it has been destroyed by fire twice, including the 1759 Siege of Quebec. The facade is Neo-classic, based on the church of Sainte-Genevieve (Paris).  The second fire was by a Canadian faction of the Ku Klux Klan. It serves as the burial site of several governors of France as well as Catholic bishops.

It's clear they brought out the big bucks for this one. There is oodles of gold. Way more than I like but certainly it is quite impressive. As with the other two churches, services are still held here.

There are some lovely details, beautiful arches...

...and a splendid Therese de Lisieuz. A friend shared this in the comments: "Mary doesn't ever hold a crucifix.And then I noticed the roses (so beautifully carved) and the inscription, "...tomber une pluie des roses."

 

 "Après ma mort, je ferai tomber une pluie de roses" / After I die, I will let fall a rain of roses.

This is Therese de Lisieux.  A/k/a  The Little Flower, or the Little Child of Jesus. An enfant terrible, but what a personality!  A French nun, she died at 24, I think, tuberculosis, after slaying everyone at the convent with her piety, her sweetness, her sunny disposition and frequent reminders of her close friendship with le Bon Dieu. 

We might have stuck around longer to explore a bit more but church was starting. Nonetheless, an impressive place to worship.

As for me, I have been lighting candles, metaphorical and otherwise, for those in Houston, Florida, Louisiana, Mexico and the Atlantic coast, as well as the islands ravaged by Harvey, Irma and potentially Jose. I send wishes to friends virtual and in-person who are recovering from the storms or soon will be.

Miss anything -- here are links to Day One (Arrival) / Our terrific B&B / Day Two, Morning / Day Two, Afternoon /  Day Three /