Sainte-Chapelle

If I had to advise someone on the "must see" church in Paris, it wouldn't be the enormous Notre Dame or St. Sulpice with its notable organ. It would be Sainte-Chapelle. So, after our visit to Montmartre, we were off to hear a concert!   

Magical Montmartre

This and other posts are part of the "Paris Tour" party on Anita's blog, "Castles, Crowns and Cottages." The links are at the bottom of her lovely post HERE.) 

Some of the photos in this post aren't showing "full" on the blog -- need to change the template. But if you click on them, you can see them full-size in the blogger slide show. 


Montmartre.

 

My guidebook says that "Montmartre and art are inseparable." Surely that was true in the late 1800s and earlier years of the 20th century when artists like Picasso, Renoir, and van Gogh were part of the Montmartre scene, along with numerous singers, dancers, and writers.

I visited Montmartre in 2009. It was fun. And if I was going back by myself, I may not have returned. 

But this year, I was with Rick. And, I had another reason.

 

If you love Paris, you must visit the beautiful blog, Peter's Paris, where Swedish ex-pat Peter Olson, who has lived in Paris for many, many years, takes readers on a journey of the City of Light in a history-packed photo-perfect series of posts that make one feel almost as though they had arrived themselves.

When I contacted Peter about our trip, we decided we'd meet (I'd be happy just for lunch!). He asked our interests and I told him art and music, and he suggested a walk around Montmartre. It was new to Rick and after I saw it through Peter's tour, it was new to me, too. (Peter volunteers for a group that offers free guided walks through Paris. For more information, go HERE.

Peter met us at the Metro stop. I'm sure he was quite familiar with it -- he'd posted about the area often on his blog. Peter volunteers as a tour guide for a Parisian organization that offers complimentary walking tours.The first thing he pointed out to us was a wall with the phrase "I love you" written in many languages. 

It was here that I spotted this orange cat that looked like the Marmelade Gypsy. It was later that I learned that on the day we were in Montmartre, Gypsy began his downward slide.

Peter led us through steep streets...

...through areas with charming shops and restaurants.

 

We even noticed this one!

Apparently "Michigan" is a French name and the artist had his own atelier in the area!

We passed through sites featured in the movie "Amalie." One such spot was this theatre lobby, where Amalie went to the movies.

(Once other tourists realized Peter knew what he was talking about, they stopped and asked him where Amalie did this or that. Peter, being gracious and lovely, certainly helped them out!

 

We saw spots we never would have found on our own, like a high-placed sign indicating that composer Eric Satie lived there.

 

At the Musee Montmartre, a plaque indicated many of the famous past residents.

 We didn't go in, but we did enjoy the sign!

 

I couldn't help but note the beautiful wisteria growing on the walls of the city. (Click for full view)

Here's another view!

We also passed by Montmartre's vineyard.

Peter said the wine is pretty bad -- but people buy it as a public service! And the area is lovely!

I was fond of the charming buildings. This pink maison was calling my name!

 

As a Van Gogh fan, I was delighted to see the plaque indicating where the artist and his brother had briefly lived.

We also saw the beautiful Sacre Cour (in the background here)...

...and enjoyed the views from the top of the butte Montmartre.

Peter and Rick immediately bonded, sharing a strong interest in music and a bit in cycling. Sometimes I would just walk behind them and smile!

After walking about for rather awhile, we decided it was time for lunch. Peter chose a restaurant that was perfect. I had my snails (I was dying for snails) and we ordered what we decided was one of our favorite meals in Paris. Peter graciously bought champagne! Never before had it tasted so wonderful!

Then it was back to the streets for more sites, like the movie theatre next door to director Claude LaLouche's home... 

 

... Au Lapin Agile, the nightclub frequented by artists like Picasso, who paid for their bill with their paintings and later notables like Julia Child.

 

And the celebrated Moulin Rouge.

Now noted for its flashy tourist shows, the original "moulin" or windmill is also on Montmartre -- although my photos were truly not dazzling.

I think Peter knew I liked cemeteries. He also discovered that one of Rick's favorite guitar composers was Fernando Sor, who is buried in the Montmartre Cemetery.

So, of course we visited. It was a fascinating place, with beautiful stones and monuments.

The entry was a handsome garden, which looked especially welcoming on a gloomy day.

Although the Pierre Lachaise cemetery is better known, there is a considerable roster of well known persons buried there, among them Jacques Offenbach.

Offenbach was best known for the music associate with the can-can.

Composer Hector Berlioz is also there. 

 

Did you know the fellow who invented the saxophone was Albert Sax? He's buried there, too!

Of course we were there during the rain. Peter and Rick investigated names, despite the showers.

This cat had a better idea!

This may have been my favorite photo of the various tombstones. It wasn't for anyone famous, but she was simply lovely. (Click for full view)

Of course, we had to part. But while we met as online blogger acquaintances, we parted as friends. (Click for full view)

And the memories we shared will certainly live in our hearts for many years to come! Thanks, Peter! (For a Paris treat, don't forget to check Peter's Paris right HERE. His label list on the right is indispensable.)

Lessons from Montmartre

Montmartre has a lot of steep hills. If you are mobility challenged, you may want to rethink a visit. You don't walk great distances, but you walk "tall" ones!

The artists in the Place du Tertre, a famous tourist spot I covered in THIS POST, aren't really the best. Enjoy it for fun, but don't let them suck you in (unless you have quite the budget!)

Unless you have an aversion to cemeteries, the Montmartre Cemetery is really quite a special and peaceful place. Check the map to find famous folk.

Although I didn't encounter them on either of my visits, I'm told to beware of pickpockets in this area.

Photos aren't allowed in Sacre Coeur, but it is a handsome church and worth a peek.

Consider a picnic if you don't want a restaurant or cafe lunch! The steps of Sacre Coeur are a fine place to stop with great views!

DON'T FORGET! 

As far as I can tell, this is officially my 800th post. A drawing continues throughout my Paris/Holland/England posts, so please enter with your comments!

A Day at the Louvre

This and other posts are part of the "Paris Tour" party on Anita's blog, "Castles, Crowns and Cottages." The links are at the bottom of her lovely post HERE.) 

Let me begin this post by saying I really love art.

So, when I tell you I really did NOT love the Louvre, you need to know:
It it has nothing to do with the art!

 Our first "visit" to the Louvre was its exterior, with its controversial pyramid against the classic architecture, once a palace for kings and emperors. Originally built in 1190 as a fortress to protect Paris from Viking raids, it was later replaced with a Renaissance-style building that was enlarged over four centuries of kings.

As we walked to our tube stop, we noticed that life never stops at the Louvre. Upkeep of this massive museum is never ending.

We returned the next day, geared up for seeing great art. This is what we first saw.

Lines. Everywhere lines. (We should have taken Rick Steves' advice about going in the evening.) But it's worth it.After passing through security, we did get to enjoy some art -- stunning sculpture was first on the list.

We wandered about, overwhelmed by the beauty of the art, its preservation, the lighting, and the massive scope of things. I won't bore you with every bit we saw that we loved, but there were plenty. And then we discovered this...

Napoleon's apartments.

These are the apartments of Napoleon III ??? They were lavish in every detail.

This was the back wall of the Salon de Petit Dejunner, or Breakfast room.

But it couldn't hold a candle in size to the dining room!

We were both in awe, stopping to really savor all the details.

The tapestry gallery was stunning as well -- oh, how I'd love to have one of those in my house (despite the fact that none of the walls are big enough!)

Although I loved the decorative arts, I really wanted to see the paintings, and the Louvre doesn't disappoint with gallery after gallery of art by the great masters. We saw signs toward the Mona Lisa. When we arrived at the gallery where she was located, this is what we saw!

And, this is about as close as we got -- no point in battling the crowds to see the wee but lovely Leonardo da Vinci piece when there was so much other amazing art around.

 This Leonardo, a quiet portrait, is a fine substitute.

 As was this portrait from Ecole de Leonard da Vinci.Do you think the students had the technique of the master?

 This Ingres I remembered from my art history classes is a great example.

 The famous portrait of Mme. Recamier was always a favorite of mine, too.

 The massive David painting of the coronation of the Empress Josephine was a crowd pleaser and with good reason.

It was beautifully done, with many fine details.

 Students found the galleries a place to study and sketch.

 I wonder if this guy gets nervous when people are watching him draw?!

 There are amazing galleries -- gold that can't quit. One feels very small in these massive rooms.

 This one celebrated Louis XIV.

 I loved the detailed panels that clearly led to a salon that wasn't open to the public, at least that day.

 Every now and then I would glance out the window -- and was glad I was inside. This photo reminded me of a Monet that might be at the Musee d'Orsay across the street!

We were eager to find the paintings of the Dutch, Flemish and those from the North. I was fond of this Holbein portrait of "Anne of Cleves," having recently discovered "The Tudors" on BBC America.

I think I took a photo of every guitar or lute painting we saw for Rick!

One of our favorite rooms was nearly empty -- it featured these tall panels by Rubens -- about 24 of them and all exquisite. I couldn't help but think that the people struggling to get a photo of Mona might never discover this real gem.

I was pleased to discover our first Vermeer of the trip -- we'll learn more about him in future posts when we get to Holland.

It was a long day. Earlier on, we'd see people walking by with glassy stares. They were done, they'd hit the wall. I hit a point where my stare was not unlike theirs and the look on my face? Something like this!

There are techniques to visit the Louvre and have a more satisfying experience. I would recommend one of Rick Steves' excellent guide book on tips to less crowded entrances and least crowded visiting times. But if you love art, I think you will find many familiar friends at the Louvre and truly be amazed by the skill and talent of the remarkable artists included.

Lessons Learned:

Bring your lunch. There are spots to eat at the Louvre. Some are expensive, all are crowded. The last thing you want to do is (as we did) spend close to an hour in line for a piece of pizza and a small salad at about $13 (10 euros). (There are also restaurants in the shopping area attached and you can re-enter the museum. We didn't think of this until later.)

Take advantage of the benches when you see them. All that slow movement on hard floors is tough on the lower back.

If you are going during the day, go early! And check guide books for the best possible times to visit.

Next time, we'll meet a blog friend and have a terrific tour of Montmartre!

Don't Forget -- Comments on these and other posts in this current series about Paris (or Gypsy) are entered into my drawing celebrating 800 posts!