London: That's Entertainment

Any big city has more than monuments and parks and London, of course, is no exception. So I thought I'd venture off into a few of our cultural endeavours!

You saw that we went to the Philharmonic and Rick had recitals at St. James. We also saw a guitar concert with Jenny and T earlier in our London time. But I had theatre on my mind. And actually, our first theatre venture bombed. Bad planning!

After our Sunday at the St. Paul's and the Tate and after a break, we thought we'd go down to the West End and catch a dinner and a play. I wanted to see Eileen Atkins ("The Crown" and "Doc Martin") and Jonathan Pryce (from the original "Miss Saigon" and "Evita" film) in "The Height of the Storm," a contemporary drama by a French playwright. When we got to the West End the theatre was dark and street guys were laying in the doorways. We decided we were early and went to find a restaurant.

We happened upon Giovanni's, an Italian restaurant on Bow Street. Since it was only a couple of hours before show time, we were curious as to why it was practically empty but it looked lovely so in we went.

And it was. A fine dinner, a rather engaging duo of (probably) owner and waiter. The owner had been there forever and photos of famous diners (well, at least photos of famous people) covered the walls.

The food was good (but beware of upcharging!).

Then back to the theatre, still closed. And then we realized, we should have checked to see if there was even anything going on!

So, we walked around a bit and while we didn't gamble there, checked out the Hippodrome, now a casino. It had great bathrooms.

This very famous spot was, in the day, the variety palace where people like Charlie Chaplin and Archie Leach (Cary Grant) performed, along with a ten-year-old Julie Andrews and Houdini (not all at the same time!). It was worth a wander.

(The next night we returned and did indeed see the show -- and it was well worth the trip back.)

I am a great fan of theatre architecture and the Wyndham, where "Height of the Storm" played, is quite a beautiful theatre. There really isn't a bad seat because it's not overly large. (A little cramped, perhaps, but not a bad view.)

And I appreciated the detail in the set design as well. It was quite a remarkable and thought provoking play, one which Rick and I have discussed more than once since our return and several months later.

One of the things I wanted to see in London was Stephen Sondheim's "Company." I love Sondheim and this time Bobby, the male lead was Bobbie, a female and the show, originally set in the 1970s, was updated with Sondheim's support.

My Canadian friend Suzanne and her husband Jim were in London then too and we saw the show together. It was a bit hairy getting to the theatre. Rick and I had gone separate ways late in the afternoon and I told him the wrong tube line to take; then I took a couple of wrong turns out of the tube myself and got there just in the nick of time!

But again, worth every penny. I hope they bring it to Broadway.

(Or at least do a CD. Rosalie Craig was a terrific singer and Patti LuPone just killed "The Ladies Who Lunch.")

And no, I didn't see this. But isn't it a great theatre facade?

I could have hit the theatre every night but I was with Rick who also wanted to hear some classical music. He did catch a second recital at St. James later in the week, this time piano/oboe. He enjoyed chatting with the musicians after.

And we also enjoyed quite a wonderful evening at St. Martin's in the Fields, where they offer classical chamber concerts.

It was a nice way to see this beautiful church, one that seems to extend into its community with great outreach.

We caught a concert featuring some of the more well known composers -- the A List -- and Rick was worried that the music might be all the old chestnuts you associate with these guys, but we were pleasantly surprised.

And, the atmosphere was quite lovely and the sound very good indeed.

Theatre tickets can be pretty pricey, but the concert tickets were surprisingly reasonable. And of course, some of the best entertainment is free!

(Although a coin or two in the collection box is always welcome!)

Travel Tips

• If you really want to see something, get tickets in advance. We did have our "Company" tickets in advance (and didn't realize it was opening night! It was fun reading reviews, knowing critics saw the same performance we did!) You can order online from home.
• Or, pick up tickets at the box office if you think you can get your show. You'll save in ticketing fees.
• Or, go to the Leicester Square half off booth to get a good deal. (There are imitations; beware!)
• Don't make our mistake and end up at the theatre on a "dark" night!
• Again, don't forget to check churches for recitals and concerts or even a service or Evensong for more classical music.
• Dining Out in the West End -- Plan ahead or allow plenty of time if you are seeing a show. And don't overlook the obscure. You might have fun at a fish and chips vendor.  And beware of upcharging. At Giovanni's, they asked us if we would like bread, which is quite common in the states as complimentary. When we got the bill, we found out it was not at all complimentary!
• One of our favorite places was "The Crypt" located in the basement of St. Martin's in the Fields. You have limited choices -- whatever is being served in the cafeteria line -- but it's good food, wine is available and the price is reasonable.

And besides, the atmosphere is pretty neat and you can't beat the location, right across from Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery. Speaking of which, it's time to get back into some art in the Trafalgar Square area!

A Real Slice of Pure Michigan -- Not Long for This World

For the past few years I have had a love-hate relationship with Up-North Michigan. (And I have to say, Rick fuels the fire, but he's right.)

In the past ten years Up North has gone from being really a get-away to being a get-away-to-a-different-place-that-looks-too-much-like home. The proliferation of big-box stores like Lowes, Home Depot, WalMart and Meijer have put many of the smaller hardware and grocery stores out of business. Those small-town shops and stores were among the places that made my summer town of Gaylord (and many of the other northern cities) what they were -- a getaway from city life.

This is the Gaylord I remember from my childhood. The place I bought my school clothes, the five-and-dime, the single movie theatre downtown with a phone booth outside (our delight was phoning the booth when the movie got out to see who would answer!).

 

Tourism in Gaylord perked up after the town went "Alpine" in the 1960s. The Alpine movement wasn't all bad -- it brought a community together and increased tourism and the bottom line for the small shops that dotted Main Street. Faux Alpine buildings (most not done all that well) were all over town. Even Big Boy wore an alpine hat. I-75 came along and had two exits. A festival was in order. But with more people, the area became more attractive to chain restaurants and stores. With good comes bad.

It isn't just Gaylord. It's like that with little towns all over the north. I don't begrudge the permanent residents the flexibility to shop in stores that other spots have, I really don't. But I get a little crazy when I think of going north to relax and you can't even get past the highway exit because the street right after is a left turn into the WalMart lot and there is no left-only signal! If I wanted to go to WalMart, I would have stayed home. The sprawl drags on for miles out of town, so the proliferation of the "boxes" not only affects the independent merchants but puts a big blot on the landscape.

People around the country tell me they see the state's Pure Michigan campaign commercials on television and how beautiful our state is. And the commercials are well done and accurate to the point of showing what's left of the best. But what those commercials don't show is that wrapped up with the beautiful vistas, startlingly blue lakes, gloriously colorful fall foliage and breathtaking winter views are traffic jams, urban sprawl, chain restaurants out the wazoo and the same big box stores that you can find in any state at any time.

It's like taking a photo for your blog. The vignette on the table or cabinet, the piece of art, the close-up of the bowl of fruit on the kitchen table looks charming! Could any of us Susie Homemakers be better? But pull out to a wide shot and you might see the breakfast skillet still on the stove or a rug that not only needs vacuuming but is peppered with cat toys. Don't even think about that pile of craft supplies on the far end of the table!

Pure Marketing.

When I was a kid coming home from the lake with my mom, we'd always stop for lunch at the Lone Pine Restaurant in Grayling, about 20 miles away from the cottage. (Grayling, I might add, doesn't have a lot to offer in the shopping department but it stayed true to its small, up-north town image of a main street and minimal sprawl, except the strip when you exit the interstate.) We'd always have a burger with their special sauce, long before Mickey D. thought of the Big Mac.

Recently, Rick and I have taken to having breakfast there when we return on a weekday morning from the cottage as we did the Tuesday after Memorial weekend. Two eggs, toast, polish sausage to die for for about $5.50. Best breakfast in the north.

 
It's the kind of place you expect to see in Northern Michigan -- and the kind that is fewer and farther between. It's northern kitch. Pine walls and tables, a spaghetti board with specials, taxidermy on the walls, photo tributes to locals, a case of miscellany that is intriguing if not designed by House Beautiful. There are still bits of Christmas up. Quite a few bits of Christmas, to be honest, but since I'm a Christmas girl and still have two (small) trees in the house, I take no one down on that one -- simply observe!




It was quiet when we arrived. The usual crowd of morning folk had departed a bit before, our waiter said. For once, we had the restaurant and our waiter to ourselves. He was a charming, talkative fellow who had been around the area forever. Somewhere in the course of the conversation he mentioned the restaurant would close on August 1. After 50 years, the owner wants a rest, one she is entitled to. The restaurant is up for sale with little interest so far. One could only hope.

This hit us on any number of levels. For me, there was an emotional connection, that mom-and-kid lunch memory. For Rick and me, it's a fun spot to stop, a quirky, non-chain with fair prices. But what really hit us was the realization that "another one bites the dust." IF, and it's a big if, they sell the restaurant, chances are a new owner will spruce it up. Maybe (or maybe not) keep the bear and the deer on the wall and its wonderful pine walls.

They'll probably remove the wonderful paneling in the rest room. Really, I like this. Perfect for the environment, nicely done.



If it isn't stripped and leveled for another Dollar Store, they will "upgrade" things. Prices will escalate -- you have to pay for those renovations somehow. And assuming they have the willingness to give it charm, chances are it will be faux charm, just like Gaylord, twenty miles to the north, is faux Alpine.

Who knows what will happen then. What I do know now is that we will eat at Lone Pine many more times before August 1. And be grateful we had the chance to include this little spot in our own bank of northern memories, before Up North becomes Down South at Higher Altitude.

Cleveland -- Friends, Family and Food!

There's lots to love in the Cleveland area -- and I don't mean just my family (although they're the best part to me)!We started our road trip in a stop at Tony Packo's in Toledo for lunch. You can't beat the good hot dogs (and Rick will tell you, the chicken) at this restaurant that came to even greater attention when Corporal Klinger of "MASH" sung its praises.

 

Our lodgings were at the Inn of Chagrin Falls. It was a historic building located in this charming town which reminds me of Disneyland Main Street. We had the Canary Room and its white wicker and cheery yellow decor made for a relaxing spot to land and bright place to awake.



Included was a continental breakfast in the adjoining dining room.

A comfortable sitting room made for a great spot to curl up with a good book!

I wish I'd had my camera when we had dinner at Cousin David's. Bonnie's chili was delicious and it was a great way to start our visit. The next morning, I enjoyed my walk in downtown Chagrin with visits to some of my favorite shops and a look at the falls. Even though it was a gloomy day, the colors were bright.



I couldn't help but think that Mark and Katie picked a great weekend for their wedding. If their wedding photos turn out with color like this, they'll be amazing!

I made a quick stop at the Chagrin Falls Hardware Store which had a wonderful Halloween room, which I featured in my "Halloween Party" post. And it wouldn't be right if I didn't make a stop at the Herb Shop!



Rick and I met one of his business clients for lunch before the wedding. I had met him the night before and enjoyed a second chance to hang out with lively conversation and good food.

Well, you saw the wedding HERE. The morning after, we enjoyed family brunch -- bagels, fruit, blintzes -- at my cousin's house. (The groom's parents)



All the family was there and it was fun to chat without shouting over the DJ background!

 

Even Mark and Katie came! The newly weds were pretty happy -- and I suspect glad the hoopla was over!

 
Then it was off to my friend Jane's house, where we spent the next night. We were ready for dinner and enjoyed delicious pizza at the Vero Bistro in the Cedar/Fairmount area of Cleveland Heights.



In addition to salads, we shared three pizzas -- a classic Margherita, an Italian meat offering and one that had a friend egg in the center!

 

It was fun to peek over the railing and see them put in and remove pizzas from the brick oven!

 

When we came down for our gelato, we had an even better view.

All that fire led us back to Jane's to have a fire in the fireplace -- perfect for a cool October night.

Jane has a 1919 house and as a historic preservationist she maintains that with her furnishings and decor. Rick is sitting in front of part of her cookbook collection. In this case, the books go floor to ceiling. And there are more elsewhere!

 

And it was off to bed. One more very meaningful bit of our trip coming soon!