Paris In July: Marc Chagall

I recently read the book "The Bridal Chair" by Gloria Golderich, about Marc Chagall and, equally and perhaps even more so, his daughter Ida, and the role she played in saving his art and getting it out of Nazi-occupied France in World War II. 

(Most of the photos in this post, unless otherwise credited, are those I've taken at Art Institute of Chicago, Paris Opera Garnier and on the Chicago streets at Chase Tower Plaza on Dearborn Street.)

The Colors of Paris

Every city has their most colorful places. Paris is far from the exception. So, hop on my Parisian color tour!

Of course, in the spring you can marvel at the vast array of color in the Marches aux Fleurs.

Or, stop by one of the numerous florist shops where the colors will dazzle!

You can easily stroll along the Seine and observe some of the more colorful selections in the stalls of bouquinistes.

Of course, you'll want to stop for a gelato or better still a glace at Bertillon's!

But some things are colorful year round, no matter how gray the skies or white the ground might be. Although these windows at Printemps were photographed in June, I daresay the other seasons are equally dazzling.



The stained glass windows of almost any church can dazzle, but none so much, I think, as those of Ste. Chapelle.

Watching them go gently from brilliant to dark during a chamber concert only adds to the beauty of the music.

If you prefer your stained glass in a museum setting, don't miss the Musee de Moyen Age, also known as Cluny. It's my personal favorite museum in Paris. The stained glass is colorful to be sure, but so, too are the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, which don't photograph so well unless your camera is better than mine!

 
If you are lucky enough to catch a ballet at Paris Opera Garnier, you must, simply for the Chagall ceiling.

You may even find an open door as you are touring so you can spend you time gazing at the ceiling without benefit of other interruptions!



And if this color tour has you craving a snack, you'll find color at your nearest patisserie, as well. Enjoy the colors while you are looking because after you make your purchase, you won't be looking long!

Finally, end the day with a magnificent sunset. An evening walk home through the City of Lights will be the perfect nightcap. (All the better if you enjoy it with a glass of vin rouge!)

This post is part of Tamara's Paris In July event at Thyme for Tea.

Join other bloggers this month who share their favorite photos, travel adventures, books and films related to Paris!

Paris In July: Four Smaller Museums

There's no shortage of museums in Paris. Many are a brand unto themselves: The Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, Carnavelet, to name several. They attract large numbers and long lines and while their offerings are splendid and perhaps not to be missed, sometimes a smaller, more "doable" museum is just the ticket.

These four examples are all targeted to special interests but even the general tourist might find something new and intriguing during a visit.

Maison de Victor Hugo

One of the most delightful things about the Victor Hugo museum is that it is located in one of my personal favorite of Parisian spots, the Place des Vosges. Pick up your baguette and cheese or some other delightful delicacy from the boulangerie and enjoy a picnic lunch on the grounds before visiting this small and fascinating museum, one of the former homes of Victor Hugo, whose works include "Les Misserables" and "The Hunchback of Notre Dame."



The museum combines both the characteristics of a typical museum -- exhibits of letters, paintings and books, all telling a story of the writer -- with his rooms and furnishings. Along the way, with the well-written audio tour, one learns about his personal life as husband, father, lover and statesman.



Certainly the fact that his funeral brought hundreds of thousands of people into the streets indicates his popularity at the time. That popularity has lingered on stages and film screens around the world.

Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme (Museum of Art and of Jewish History)

 This small museum is located in the Marais, about eight blocks north of BHV and Hotel deVille on Rue du Temple, just past Rue Rambuteau. No photos were allowed within, which is a pity because both the exhibition on the day of my visit and the permanent collection were fascinating.



Included you will find not only the scheduled special exhibit but items and artifacts pertaining to the lives of Jews in Paris throughout the city's history and the history of Jewish communities in France, Europe and North Africa. Included is work by Chagall and Modigliani and the archives of the Dreyfus affair. I found particularly poignant an exterior wall of names from those who were victims of the Holocaust.

Bibliothèque-Musée de l'Opéra National de Paris (Opera Garnier)

Many visit the Paris Opera to walk down its grand staircases and see the magnificent auditorium with its Chagall ceiling. Of course, this is a wonderful experience but for the opera and ballet fan, the museum itself is a lovely treat.

 

 
This includes the library and archives of the Paris opera along with numerous related museum exhibits and paintings related to the topic. You'll see costumes, scene design models and renderings, books and musical scores. (Check with the library about access to these materials on days when the museum is closed). Special exhibits may highlight a special occasion or composer. (An exhibit about Jules Massinet was featured during our visit.)



Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation

This fourth is not really a museum, but it is a powerful place to visit to those who feel a strong connection to the Holocaust. It is a memorial, a place of contemplation, of memory.

Located behind Notre Dame, underground on the Seine, this is a memorial to the 200,000 people who were deported from Vichy to concentration camps during World War II. Stark, simple, poignant, it is a compelling reminder of the damage to humanity when a dictator or political group feels that a civilization and group of people must be eliminated, simply for who they are and what they believe. (If one is looking at the east end of Ile de la Citie from the Seine, you will see a small, barred window on the point of the island. This is the only light from outside that enters the memorial.)

Narrow and claustrophobic, the memorial includes inscriptions as well as ashes from the crematoriums. The crystal room (you view it from the end) has 200,000 lighted crystals for those deported from France in World War II. It is not everyone's cup of tea. But I found it incredibly moving.

And, given the state of things in the Middle East these days, it may well hit all too close to home.

In General

There are many other small museums in this remarkable city. They highlight specific artists, dolls and toys, arts and crafts, advertising -- there might be a museum for any topic! Check to see if the ones you want to visit are included on the museum pass for discounts and by-passing lines.

This post is part of "Paris In July." For more posts related to books, travel, movies and more from France, visit THIS LINK. 

Tamara may post participants on her sidebar or in the post at the top of her blog which is Thyme for Tea.One way or the other you'll find boatloads of French fun!

Paris In July: Finding Your Own Music

One last Paris In July post (check Thyme for Tea for other great links!) For the music lover, Paris is an auditory delight. Join me on a mini-musical tour!

Clearly, the easiest music to find is that on the street and in the Metro. They don't just let "anyone" have street space here, so you can count on something rather beautiful. For the most part, you'll find the lone violinist or a small group with their relatively portable instruments. But at Place de Vosges we spent a rather long time enjoying the beautiful harp music of this young man.

For something more formal, check out the Paris Opera Garnier. The lobby itself is a masterpiece, but imagine sitting in this beautiful theatre as you enjoy some of the greatest operas and ballets ever written.

(The Chagall ceiling isn't bad, either!).

Of course, if you are more the student, venture below to the opera's museum where you will find volumes of musical scores, paintings, set models and costumes from productions and many special exhibits.

Feeling classical?


You'll find numerous opportunities to hear free or inexpensive music in churches with their magnificent organs. But for a slightly more expensive and almost celestial experience, check out the chamber concerts in La Sainte Chapelle.

I've been to two of these and yes, they do play the lollipops (as Rick calls the "Pachelbel Canon" and "Four Seasons"). But they play them well.

And face it -- do you really come for the music or the incredible experience of enjoying this magnificent church and the light that dances on the floor from the renowned stained glass windows? (I'm not sure how this plays out in winter with it getting darker early, but in the summer it's pure joy to enter with the light pouring through and by the end, the sun has gone down, casting lovely shadows.)

The performers are always happy to meet after the show -- and sell a CD or two!

 

Of course, if you are musically inclined yourself, a trip to Rue du Rome's music stores should be on your list. Shopping for sheet music is an almost overwhelming experience.

And if you're not so good -- well, they have something for that, too!

My personal classical guitarist sampled guitars in several stores, including two specialty guitar stores in the Rue du Rome area.

 

We enjoyed impromptu concerts by the store owners which were simply delightful...

... and Rick had the opportunity to audition guitars.

 We also learned valuable information on the instruments, their history and makers..

You'll find music stores elsewhere, of course, just not so concentrated. On Avenue Bonmarchais, we were also able to chat with the luthier.

Then after, Rick offered his own concert, more uditioning guitars.

Of course, one of the most delightful ways to enjoy music is simply to encounter it. And a stop at a cafe or walk down one of any number of Parisian streets will bring a find and musical end to your day.

This is part of the Paris In July blog post party. You can find more posts on Paris at Thyme for Tea at the left side of the page! 

 Check them out -- you'll discover new books, films, photos and travel info!