Reflections on a Labyrinth

I had never walked a real labyrinth before. The closest I had come was one that friends had made in their field. It was a "real" labyrinth, to be sure. And a lovely experience. But one could never quite see the center through the tall grasses, nor could we see where we were or where we were going. So when I learned that New Harmony, Indiana, had a labyrinth modeled after the one in Chartres, I knew I had to go.
 

And I knew I had to go alone. I wanted to walk with no distractions, not worry whether I was slowing anyone down and be able to contemplate whatever came to mind during that time. So, on an early Saturday morning, I walked the few blocks down the street to have the experience.

Labyrinths have been used for more than four thousand years in many cultural traditions. The New Harmony "Cathedral Labyrinth and Sacred Garden" was completed "as the new millennium began with the hope that many will walk the ancient path well into the 21st century."

The accompanying brochure explains that as one walks the path, they purposefully enter a space where there is order and reason. There are no deceptions on the path or tricks or dead ends. One follows it in faith, having the opportunity to look within while moving toward the center, then retracing the way to the beginning.

To be honest, I didn't know what to expect. How hard is it to follow a path to the center and walk out again? What could possibly come to mind. But I'm game, and -- with shoes off, as suggested -- I set out, somewhat mindful of the suggestions for the walk that the brochure suggested -- essentially bringing one's self to a personal center or intent. One of the suggestions was to "think of the labyrinth as a methapor for your life with its many turns and winding nature."

But initially, all I could think of was how the granite felt under my feet, how it changed temperature from cool in the shade to warm in the spots kissed by the sun. I was incredibly aware of my senses -- the morning stillness, broken only by the birds trilling their early morning songs and the sound of the Orpheus Fountain at the edge of the labyrinth.

As I moved through, I was struck by the patterns, the sense of closing in on the rose center but then being pulled back into the perimeter. I was in awe of those who created this symmetrical pattern -- a puzzle without a trick.

But then I began to realize that this was not unlike life. We have a goal -- the center of the labyrinth, if you will. Perhaps that is happiness or peace of mind, perhaps something more tangible. We move forward toward the goal -- and yet for whatever reason, circumstances take us away from it, back to the perimeter, back to a maze that appears far from the desired end.

Consider the right professional path, for example -- studying to learn, applying for jobs, getting one, but -- perhaps the wrong one or having the wrong boss, perhaps you advance -- or are laid off. You may switch career paths to begin again. And if you are very lucky, you find the right thing.

It could apply to relationships as well. Actually, to just about anything in life. Getting closer, the challenge of being pulled back, coming forward again. Reaching the center.

But, it is only if you keep on the path, ever mindful to what is in your heart, what is around you and what centers you that you ultimately reach not only the center of the labyrinth but the center of your soul, of what gives you the greatest joy.

I've lived that walk every day. Many times I thought I was close to the rose center of my life and then things might happen to pull me off track, cause me to grieve, to rethink past choices, to evaluate. And ultimately, lead me toward a new center, the one of deepest happiness. That's where I am now. It is the greatest gift I've ever known.

Did I need a walk on the labyrinth to realize that? I don't think so. But it certainly helped clarify it. The experience was so profound and deep, it's been difficult to speak about and to share. And yet, now I can.

I don't know if the wedding couple Allison (Rick's niece) and Brennan walked this labyrinth during their wedding weekend. I suspect they had plenty of other things on their mind. But I hope they walk it someday, maybe even someday soon, as a reminder that their life will go in circles sometimes, that they may be far from the center, even though only shortly before they thought they were almost there. But to keep on the path, for it does lead home.

That's my wedding wish for Allison, that her joy be great and her heart fulfilled, that as years go by, she has found the rose center of her own labyrinth.

A Roofless Church

It was early on a Saturday morning. Because of the time change, we were an "hour off" so I was up early (early-to-rise was also enhanced by Rick's brother pounding on the door at 7 a.m. saying "Let's go riding!" Boys and their bikes...)

I had decided this would be the perfect time to take a walk to the roofless church and labyrinth (that's a later post) -- a time when it was quiet and thoughtful.

It was also a beautiful morning when I came upon the church designed by Philip Johnson. Birds, singing, warm but not yet too hot or humid.

The church was located only a couple of blocks from the New Harmony Inn. Outside you'll find some beautiful sculpture such as this "Angel of the Annunciation."

If one wanted to be literal, you'd describe it as a brick wall surrounding a very large garden. True. But so much more. The heavy entry gates on the main entry give it a sense of greater presence.

With no roof to close one in, the feeling of peace and beauty is simply overwhelming. At this time of day it was very quiet; I was the only one there. The environment felt protected, loved and cared for.

There were spots to sit and contemplate.

Beautiful art was scattered throughout.

The sculpture on the exterior was equally interesting.

 

Neatly tended gardens rest in the corners...

...and clean, even stones make for beautiful walkways.

The Roofless Church was created as "a place for all people," although it is under the care of the Episcopal Discese.

The only somewhat enclosed spot is the alter, which one can see from various angles upon entering.


Up close, it is equally lovely.


I know that not all who visited here thought the same way I did -- perhaps they came looking for an attraction, perhaps there were more people there and it didn't offer the solace and silence I sought and found.

But the words above say it well. An all-inclusive space for people to meditate, contemplate, worship or simply be. It may not be the faith that draws you but clearly it is the peace that reigns.

Finding Harmony

Recently we attended the wedding of Rick's niece Allison in New Harmony, Indiana. Allison wisely chose this small town near the Kentucky and Illinois borders as a site for family and friends to congregate for her special day, knowing they would find it as enchanting and romantic -- not to mention fascinating -- as she did.

This spot is exquisite and if you are traveling in this part of the U.S., a detour to New Harmony will refresh you. Don't look for the wild and crazy good times (although after the rehearsal and reception, I am told by many of the 20-40 set that a very good time was had at the Yellow Tavern!). What you will find include historic buildings, beautiful biking areas, charming homes, a small but lovely downtown with good shopping and a labyrinth and roofless church, both of which will be featured in separate posts.

It must be "wedding city" -- there were five or six weddings taking place over the weekend we were there, and the New Harmony Inn also serves as a center for conferences. It's the quietest town I've ever been in -- many of the New Harmony residents skip about in golf carts.

I enjoyed the antique stores and farmer's market, even though that was very small. A quiet early morning walk was truly a spiritual highlight and I could understand the historical elements of the town simply by walking.

   

The Lenz House (c. 1819-22) had a lovely kitchen garden.

We stayed in the New Harmony Inn, which was very nice. (Everything is walking distance in this hamlet). However, I would recommend one of the lovely guest houses. I'm told from those who were there that they are filled with antiques and many, like this one, had lovely patios for breakfast.

 

Guest House

The rest of this post includes the fascinating historical background of New Harmony, edited from a piece written by Rod Clark for the wedding couple's "goodie bag." Even if you aren't interested in the history of this intriguing 1800s experiment in communal living (different from but not unlike the Shakers) read on!

The cabin on the far right is the first Rappite log cabin and built in 1804

New Harmony was established 200 years ago by a group of German immigrants led by George Rapp. Rapp's religious sect (Deists) had undergone religious persecution in Germany and they fled to the newly founded America. They were known as The Harmonist Society and they established one of the earlier attempts at community living in the United States.

Our group checked out the brick work on the original communal living dormitory

The Harmonists were a strictly religious group and wanted to establish a Utopian community based on their understanding of "God's Kingdom." They shared properties and revenue in principles we would now equate more with socialism.

In many ways, they remind me of the Shakers, at least in terms of producing quality items. The Shakers are known for their furniture; the Harmonists for items like textiles, whiskey, beer and rope. They exported these items both to other states and Europe and were so successful that they left the town to move closer to their markets (1825).

In Scotland, progressive European manufacturer Robert Owen had learned of the Harmonists' concept of community organization and when the town was put up for sale, Owen decided to purchase the community to begin his community of a new society with shared ownership and labor.

 
Because he was so successful in Europe, he attracted the curiosity and scrutiny of others to see how this new system would work and initially it was met with great enthusiasm.

But unfortunately, rather than simply gathering the hard workers, Owen's plans also attempted those looking for a "free ride" and he abandoned the community two years later. His sons, however, and others in New Harmony remained and eventually the town became a known as a cultural and scientific center.

 Some buildings are preserved inside as they were in the 1800s.

The town has been exquisitely preserved thanks to the efforts of Jane Blaffer Owen, a Texaco/Exxon heiress who married one of the Owen descendents in the 1940s. She committed her wealth and her energies to preserving the town as a spiritual retreat center and a place of art, music and beauty.

If you head to New Harmony, check out the antique shops, had a terrific salad at Sara's (also a lovely wine bar with an excellent list).Sit for a few minutes in one of the parks or gardens. Just wander.

You'll be refreshed, peaceful, calm -- and pleasantly surprised!