This England: All's Well in Wells

Before we left home, as I was checking maps and guidebooks, I saw that the town of Wells wasn't far from Bath. And indeed, when I spoke with friend Martha, she said it was an easy bus ride away. I'd been curious about Wells and its cathedral for years, ever since I saw a photo by my friend, the late travel photographer Wally Parshall. I knew this was a spot I'd like to visit.

Rick, on the other hand, wanted to take advantage of the lovely day to take a hike, so I went into the city and hopped the double decker bus, sitting happily in the first row of the upper level, and off I went to Wells!

Wells was about an hour or so away and our bus rolled through a countryside so brilliantly green it almost looked unreal. I knew we were in England, not Ireland, but I still expected leprechauns to pop out at any moment.

We passed through towns with names I loved -- Midsomer Norton (really, there IS a Midsomer?), Peasedown St. John, Shepton Mallet.

 

 And then there were the sheep. 

They grazed on hills like white polka dots on a blanket of green. I just wanted to touch them. 

The roads are narrow in this part of the country (and elsewhere, I would learn). So narrow that from my front-row seat I would be the first to see a low-hanging branch that would slap against the front window as we passed. Once, we pulled over to let another car get by. I was glad I wasn't driving!

I also enjoyed the conversation of these two women sitting opposite me on the upper deck. They were chatting about grandchildren, favorite recipes, a repair man, and their shopping plans. I thought, "this could be me and one of my good friends in another ten years." (I'm an optimist.) 

Finally, we arrived in Wells. Since I had no idea where I was going, I asked a fellow headed toward town where the cathedral was located. He gave me good directions and told me to have a wonderful day. I passed the street market, bustling with blooms and booths. It was already wonderful.

Wikipedia tells me that Wells has been called "unquestionably one of the most beautiful" and "most poetic" of English cathedrals. But I didn't need Wikipedia to tell me that. One look at the impressive exterior and I needed no convincing.

But just in case I was worried, one look inside would allay all fears. In striking Gothic style, building began in 1175 and continued until 1306. The Lady Chapel was built to give additional space and was completed in 1326. The choir (or quire) was extended as well.

And, the Vicars' Close was built to provide a secure place for those who sang in the choir to live, away from the temptations of the town. (We'll take a look at that below.)

If you've visited these massive churches, you may have experienced, as I did, a sense of awe and of peace. I was lucky -- while there were others visiting that day, it was not crowded and indeed, one felt very much alone. 

Take a look at those arches at the end of the center aisle. They are called scissor arches and look rather modern, but were actually built between 1338 and 1348 as part of the work to heighten the central tower. Their shape helps support the tower and prevent it from collapsing inwards.

 

 I thought this clock was especially beautiful.

I found this stairway to the Chapter House especially dramatic with natural light flooding it. (There were warnings about being careful on the steps which were steep and very uneven. But I had to go to the top!)

Old churches always have magnificent tombs of the great and the good. Wells was no exception.

 But you didn't have to be great or good to enter. All were welcome -- And anyone could come into the church. Even dogs!

Numerous tombs were in the floor. This woman had a great name!

This is the Quire, which -- a sign tells me -- is the worshipping heart of the church.

 A highlight of the quire is the Jesse Window, which was installed in 1430 and considered one of the finest examples of medieval stained glass in Europe. Jesse was a cousin of Jesus who was mentioned in Isiah. Jesse is represented by the circles of white light in the bottom panels.

I especially loved the beautifully made bench cushions with their intricate needlpoint work.

The Lady Chapel celebrates the Virgin Mary. Sacked by Puritans in the seventeenth century, much of the glass was reconstructed.

A handsome sculpture reminds us who is being honored here. 

Don't forget to look up!

 

What could possibly be beyond this door?

It turned out to be a wonderful display of artifacts from the cathedral, along with posters where employees picked out their favorite parts of the building. A scissor arch-shaped "tree" included drawings made by visitors to the cathedral of their own favorite spots, some childlike, others quite detailed.

The font is a treasured piece dating from the late Anglo-Saxon period and in the Anglo-Saxon cathedral that predated the present building. It is still in use today for baptisms.

I would be remiss not to take you to the Vicar's Close, for it was one of the most charming areas of the cathedral complex. Located across the road, it was originally established as living quarters for the cathedral's choir. At the far end is the chapel which was once the choir's library.

It is considered the most complete example of a medieval street in the UK and has been described as "A medieval street singing through the centuries." On the afternoon I walked through, I could hear in one area, the music of a piano drifting out into the close. In another, the sounds of a violin.

Today it is a row of residences, each with a charming front garden.

These were a few that I especially liked. 

And a couple more!

I hated to leave this haven, but it was time to catch the bus home. (I even ran into the pleasant fellow who had directed me to the cathedral when I arrived!)  I left with two oat/caramel/chocolate-covered flapjacks from the local bakery and more photos than I could possibly share here.

I also left with a wonderful sense of admiration for these masons and designers who so long ago built this amazing cathedral, and for those who have kept it maintained in the centuries that have followed.

Travel Tips:

• If you're lucky enough to have the chance, grab the front seat on the upper level of a double decker bus! You see everything -- and the big windows make for good drive-by photo ops! 
• If possible, allow enough time to explore the town you're visiting. The day I arrived there was the street market and a lot of cute shops I didn't really have the time to dig into. (The last thing I needed to do was shop, but it's always fun to look!) But with the bus schedule, I was at the mercy of someone else's timetable. Note to self -- next time, get an earlier start!

If you want to follow our trip and missed earlier posts, you can find them archived at the England 2024 tab on the menu bar above. 

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