My second great grandmother was from Wales. I know little about her but I've always been a bit curious about England's neighboring country to the west. So, when we decided to base for a week in Bath, it was an added bonus that a trip to Wales would make for a fun and interesting day.
So, Rick and I took off on the train from Bath. It was a fairly short ride, about 90 minutes, and soon we were in Cardiff. And, I have to say it was the smoothest, most quiet train ride I've ever had -- quite different from our American AMTRAK (at least in Michigan!)
Our first visit would be to Cardiff Castle, which had been recommended to us from some people we met at the Frome Independent. The magnificent medieval castle was built in the 11th century on a Roman site established in 50 AD and was strategic due to its easy access to the sea.
The present castle was presumably commissioned by William the Conqueror. Work and rebuilding continued for over a century. The castle was often attacked in the 12th century and even stormed in the 1400s as the Welsh and Anglo-Normans experienced years of conflict.
There were plenty of steps to get up there (steep ones, too!) but I made it. Rick ventured all the way to the top. (I passed up the final narrow spiral stairway.) The views were magnificent.
The castle changed hands many times over the centuries, eventually into the hands of the Marquesses of Bute in the mid-1700s. It was at this time that the first Marquess renovated the main lodgings into a Georgian mansion -- and quite the mansion it was!
This remodeling continued, employing great gothic revival techniques. The Third Marquess worked with architect William Burges in 1866 to transform the mansion. (Work continued well into the next generation.) He created opulent, over-the-top interiors using murals, carvings, stained glass and gilding. The rooms had themes and four of them are available on the "general ticket" tour. (For the other four, you have to buy the guided tour, which we didn't. We also couldn't go into the clock tower, which was fine. But the outside was lovely!)
These are the steps to get to the clock tower area and another look out. Not for the faint of heart! They are steeper than they look!
The Arab Room was one of the theme-based rooms and it was beyond spectacular and almost too difficult to take in. The ceiling was covered in gold leaf and made of wood, while the floor was of Italian marble.
The little video I did on my phone wasn't very good but this one from youtube gives you an idea of the scope. Amazing what an unlimited budget can do!
(And by the way, the Butes didn't "live" there. It was more like a cottage or second home situation where they would entertain. It's a whole different vibe from when I go up north to the cottage!)
The Banquet Hall took fifteen years to complete and was quite spectacular. (And here I was, kvetching when it took a couple of weeks for a guy to redo my bathroom shower.) While there was no furniture as such, the walls and fireplaces were magnificent.
I do have to say the murals, while beautifully done, were a tad gruesome! Reflecting medieval history, they They scenes from a civil conflict known as the "Anarchy" when the sister of Robert Earl of Gloucester (Henry I illegitimate son and Lord of the Castle) fought King Stephen for the throne.
The 2014 NATO Summit Dinner was held here, with leaders including Barack Obama, David Cameron and Angela Merkel, among the 60 heads of state.
The small dining room was more intimate, though still pretty fancy with a painted and gilded ceiling. Based on the Book of Genesis, the fireplace's chimney piece features three angels flanked by Abraham and Sarah with an inscription of "Entertaining angels unawares."
I was also very fond of the library -- but then, give me a bunch of books and I'm happy. Countless volumes were all part of a set -- it was enough to make one wonder if they were purchased that way for show, although a number of them showed signs of wear.
The room's decor is based on literature and language. Above the fireplace, five carved figures hold tablets in the scripts of Greek, Hebraic, Assyrian, Hieroglyphics and Runic. The red and gold walls are embellished by the addition of putti, each one carries the name of one of Lord Bute’s favourite authors, including Shakespeare and Molière.
There was more to this remarkable place, a good bit of which I'm included in my Veterans Day post. We did enjoy a walk along the ramparts . . .
And I would have loved to see the trebuchet in action!
But this post is long enough -- and we have more of Cardiff to explore next time!
Travel Tips:
Train tickets are easily available at the station. Check schedules for the timetables. You may have an option to pick a train with fewer stops and that's always a plus.
Before you buy the BIG ticket, (which may include a guided tour) consider how much time you have to spend. While it would have been fun to see the additional rooms available only on the guided tour, that would have taken much longer. As it was, to see the castle, mansion and the underground tunnels, we spent several hours. With only one day in Cardiff and wanting to explore a bit more, we chose to do the self-guided. Info on your phone can fill in some of the historic details if you take this option.
If you missed our earlier posts about England 2024, you can check them out on the menu tab at the top of the blog or click here.
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51 comments:
So great that you managed to go to Wales as you had ancestors from there. I have a long list of places to visit where I had ancestors...will have to wait until I retire, lol. Great castle and rooms.
The castles look just fantastic in deed
Great post. As you know, Jeanie, I am a fan of castles. This looks absolutely fantastic. Definitely on my list when we reach Wales one day.
I have no experience of Cardiff, Jeanie, but I have stayed in Wales twice, in small villages deep in this tiny country and it was fantastic. I have roamed the wilds of Snowdonia and explored Anglesey and have been in small villages where Welsh was still spoken routinely. I have spent glorious times in small B&Bs with charming families. Get out of the cities would be my advice, away from the noise, the hubbub, the crowds and the pollution is what I would recommend - but then again I am me and you are you! I am glad that you enjoyed your visit. All the best - David
What an interesting place! I hope to visit there some day.
I am so glad you got to visit Wales and Cardiff Castle. The Arab room would almost be overwhelming. It is amazing. I think I would have felt most comfortable in the library. All of it looked amazing.
Wonderful. I love the idea that places are so close together in the UK and yet filled with so many sights, wonders and history.
Wonderful photos Jeanie! You had a great visit to Wales.
I love the castle! Take care, enjoy your day and the week ahead.
Wow, such history! Amazing work and architecture.
I love all those architectural details of old buildings! This sounds like such a fun day trip.
Side trips on different methods of transportation are always an adventure.Glad you made it up the stairs!You have come a long way💫
...they spared no expensive when they built years ago!
Now I have that tune “Riding a Donkey” in my head. Something like, “We’re you ever in Cardiff Bay … etc” Not too long ago, I read a series of mysteries set in Wales. They were okay. I can’t recall the name right now, so that means they weren’t great. 😀
the castle is beautiful...i watched the video and the ceiling is really fascinating. "unlimited funds" i could not help but think of the other ways that the money could be spent. and as to the murals, i agree with you that they were quite gruesome, but i guess they were trying to display the history of that time. the clock tower is gorgeous, as is everything you shared. looks like a super fun day trip!!
We also found that traveling by train in Europe is very pleasant as compared to the U.S. That castle looks grand and spectacular. Thanks for sharing its history and the pics.
Now I’d love to visit Wales.
www.rsrue.blogspot.com
Looks like quite the adventure. Castles always intrigue me. The architecture is spectacular. The train ride looks lovely and a great way to get around.
That's quite a change from my student experience of Wales, hiking soaking wet in Snowdonia! This looks a bit more opulent. I didn't know Cardiff Castle was such a museum piece. Thank you.
Oh, another place on my list. Cardiff and Wales has SO much history....how wonderful you were there and with relatives, lol. Love the signs of all those letters, I had a friend that would send me pics of street and road signs for fun. Hugs, Sandi
I enjoyed touring the castle magnificent to see
Jeanie, I seem to be occupying a different world these days. I knew you were going but not exactly when. Sounds like a beautiful trip and I'm so happy for you. I know how much you love England..xxoJudy
The castles are pretty impressive. Your photos are awesome and thanks for showing us.
"The magnificent medieval castle was built in the 11th century"
A thousand years old!
The Arab room is just astonishing. Who would have thought such architecture was possible?
My advice, next time come for at least a month! That way you can take in many more wonderful castles {Pembroke, Harlech,, Caernarfon and Beaumaris to name a few} St Fagan's Welsh Folk Museum, Big Pit. Llanberis Slate Museum, Portmeirion, the National Botanical Gardens, Aberglasney, Caldey Island, Yr Wyddfa, Dolacothi, Dyffryn, Erddig and oh! so much more.
I have a bit of welsh in me as well. I love castles. When we were in Denmark we took guided tours of several of them. Their history is so very interesting.
I miss spoke yesterday. My grandfather was in World War I!
What a lovely tour but talk about constant home improvement yikes
cathy
That was an amazing castle that was worth the trip. The train looked pretty cool, too. ;)
Gad you made it to Wales, Jeanie. I enjoyed your photos. Looks like you got plenty of exercise!
Cardiff is such a wonderful city. It is hard to choose what to see and do. I think you made a great choice. I hope to get back there someday. My great-grandmother was from Wales. I was fortunate to spend several days in Wales nearly thirty years ago. I so wish I could go back.
Wonderful trip!
I enjoyed the reading about the adventures you two had.
Wakes is another wonderful country to visit. Loved reading all about the castle and clock tower. Not sure if I would be able to walk those steps. Janice
Jeanie, this is a wonderful introduction to Wales. The castle looks amazing. I don’t like narrow and steep stairs! We had a day trip several years ago to Wales and thoroughly enjoyed our visiti!
Don’t know why I am showing up anonymous. This is Pam @ Everyday Living.
Wonderful that you managed to go to Wales.
Great post with some lovely photographs.
I did enjoy seeing the Castle.
All the best Jan
This certainly is different than the Wales I imagine when I think of that country. I had no idea there was such lavishness there. History? Of course. Gold leaf and magnificent banquet halls? Those were a surprise.
That castle looks like a great place to visit. And isn't it amazing how much time visiting some places can take, while others are much shorter than you expect? I'm glad you took the day trip up to Wales. It sounds like you did some venturing out and had a full and rich experience. Looking forward to your next post. hugs-Erika
I enjoyed this post very much Jeannie. We have not ventured into Wales yet. I certainly would love to explore the Castle in Cardiff. Your photos are great!
Jeanie,
WOW!! What amazing pictures...That castle is something else!!!
Thanks so much for stopping by!!
Hugs,
Deb
Debbie-Dabble Blog
A fascinating glimpse of Cardiff Castle! Love the photo shot with the window framing the tower. Medieval history is indeed gruesome!
Born, bred, and living in Wales, I'd love to know what you imagine Wales to be like, especially in regards to lavishness.
Thanks for all the photos..I lived in and around Cardiff for many years but never went inside the castles! I love the Animal wall though.
Cardiff Castle is just incredible, thank you for sharing.
Isn't it amazing?
So many from the UK migrated here. We've a Cardiff nearby, as well as many other place names.
I think this post is just amazing! What beautiful rooms! I wonder what Barack Obama ate there: Pheasant or Quail, perhaps?
The Arab room is stunning (as is that you made it up so many stairs! Yippeeee).
All rooms are WOW. And to imagine how they did it back then!
Thank you for sharing this.
We have never been to Wales. Can you believe it?! We've lived here 13 years! It's just a little too far for the dog!
Quite the mansion is right, it is over the top amazing.
Oh gosh. What a wondrous place to visit. One of my daughter's high school friends lives in Wales.
What an amazing castle! From here, it looks like you could plan a month of "guided tours" and barely see everything. The stained glass and detailed vaulting is fabulous. And it looks like you enjoyed good weather, too, for your excursion! Congrats on making it up all those stairs!
Lol I would have wanted to see the trebuchet in action too!! I think Wales would be such a beautiful place to visit. I remember I once found a vacation rental there that was a little cottage complete with sheep and I really wanted to go. Lol. Maybe we will take Wyatt one day!
Thank you for taking me on a tour. I thoroughly enjoyed it. My knees are way past all those steps. I wouldn't even consider it, but the castle has a fascinating history.
The architecture is incredible!!
Jenna
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